Hey Arkansas, its fun stuff I know. It can be hard to recreate and control, depth of color on open floors compared to samples. Measure your amounts and volumes of each ingredient, the amount of time you are letting your concoction brew. When applied dont leave heavy areas, carefull not to let it too soon before oiling. I believe it keeps changing until its neutralized with oil. Sounds like fun right? Until you mess a floor up and have a Resand or worse re scrape the entire floor. Their are so many great reactive stains and pretreatments on the market now that its even more fun playing with those creations. They are more expensive obviously but weighing in the cost of resanding a floor they are worth the price having more reliable outcomes. I do still use the simple home made black reaction for french bleeds that get mostly sanded off. I've had great success with The Rubio smoked and fumed as well as the Loba brown and Grey, all excellent, consistent, reliable. They can all be diluted with water to weaken the reaction if needed. The Ciranova reactive line I have played with samples, it is so extensive i think it deserves a three day course to to fully understand the possibilities. Keep in mind reactive stains react with the Tanic acid found in woods. I used mainly white oak. The darker the board the more Tanin the darker the reaction. Any white sappy boards will react very little. The select European white oak will be the most consistent and provide cleaner more consistent reactions. Have fun. It's a great time to be a wood floor finisher.
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