TDMAC wrote:
TDMAC, you give me hope![smile]()
Your vinyl sheet solution is the only thing that I have found that may work for my situation.
I have an interior room on a ground level slab, poured in the 1960's. We are in a neighbourhood that is high and dry on sandy soil.
So the slab's moisture content is likely pretty low, although I have not tested it yet.
Recently I was given free access to a hardwood flooring company that had closed up in our work complex, and acquired 5,000 s.f. of select grade 3/4 Goodfellow and Mercier 3/4" Maple in various factory finishes. Enough to do our entire house and then refinish to the wife's chosen color.
I tell you all of this to answer to your question as to why someone would want to glue down 3/4 hardwood over concrete. So, the answer is... "because it is what we have and it was free!![smile]()
Additionally, installing a 3/4" or even a 1/2" subfloor onto the slab first would not work as the room can't handle the additional height this would bring.
The slab has 9x9 1960's VAT floor tile that I have had tested for asbestos and yes, it has a small percentage, but apparently not friable unless broken up.
Many of the tiles have lifted edges, and some have broken corners. Many of the tiles will pop off pretty easily in one piece with minimal effort from a scraper pushed underneath. Still, they do contain asbestos, and I'd much rather just cover them up and encapsulate them under the vinyl membrane. Looks like they were adhered with a tar based adhesive underneath, which is likely asbestos as well.
So... my thoughts are to only remove the loose tiles with lifted edges, leave the rest, fill in to level out the areas without tiles, and then go with your glue and vinyl membrane method, and then finally glueing the hardwood onto the vinyl.
Any suggestion on what to use to level out where the tiles will be missing underneath the vinyl layer? Replacement 9x9 tiles? A compound? In order to remove the wax from the remaining tiles prior to gluing down the vinyl layer, I planned on wiping the remaining tiles with a methyl hydrate and laquer thinner mix first.
Am I on the right track?
Thanks
Don
David, You are a book guy? Well your books are spot on and I agree with most your analysis.
You are right that I am stuck in the past on some processes that "I know what WONT fail!" I test almost every new adhesive on many areas before I will use it anymore. Taylor sure pasts my test.
My big BooYa on Bostik & Urethane glues are that is holds tooooo well.
My gosh, we had to remove a BR111 floor because of bad factory finish and we had used a Urethane (not Bostik) and it took 4 men 4 days to chisel off the 900 ft. It was insane as the concrete chipped up. It was good slab but urethane adhesive is overkill as far as I am concerned.
My AS Degree in Architecture and 26 units short of a B/A ( Army 66-69) has taught me some valuable lessons. Growing up in the 50's and watching OLD School guys do things smart was a great lesson. Test everything is my motto.
My other big beef with Urethane glue is the CLEANING when it gets on the finish. It is very intense to keep ahead of that process and if missed, the glue residue is tough to remove even with their cleaner. More cost to me.
On the cost of a sheet-vinyl membrane that I can Guarantee to my client: My cost is 60% of most new applied adhesive membranes, but I make a small profit on that vinyl process and install hardwood over it the same day! I can show clients it works with a cup of water![smile]()
It is the visible guarantee that is SAFE!!!
Cheers
Don't fix if it aint broke!!
You are right that I am stuck in the past on some processes that "I know what WONT fail!" I test almost every new adhesive on many areas before I will use it anymore. Taylor sure pasts my test.
My big BooYa on Bostik & Urethane glues are that is holds tooooo well.
My gosh, we had to remove a BR111 floor because of bad factory finish and we had used a Urethane (not Bostik) and it took 4 men 4 days to chisel off the 900 ft. It was insane as the concrete chipped up. It was good slab but urethane adhesive is overkill as far as I am concerned.
My AS Degree in Architecture and 26 units short of a B/A ( Army 66-69) has taught me some valuable lessons. Growing up in the 50's and watching OLD School guys do things smart was a great lesson. Test everything is my motto.
My other big beef with Urethane glue is the CLEANING when it gets on the finish. It is very intense to keep ahead of that process and if missed, the glue residue is tough to remove even with their cleaner. More cost to me.
On the cost of a sheet-vinyl membrane that I can Guarantee to my client: My cost is 60% of most new applied adhesive membranes, but I make a small profit on that vinyl process and install hardwood over it the same day! I can show clients it works with a cup of water
It is the visible guarantee that is SAFE!!!Cheers
Don't fix if it aint broke!!
TDMAC, you give me hope
Your vinyl sheet solution is the only thing that I have found that may work for my situation.I have an interior room on a ground level slab, poured in the 1960's. We are in a neighbourhood that is high and dry on sandy soil.
So the slab's moisture content is likely pretty low, although I have not tested it yet.
Recently I was given free access to a hardwood flooring company that had closed up in our work complex, and acquired 5,000 s.f. of select grade 3/4 Goodfellow and Mercier 3/4" Maple in various factory finishes. Enough to do our entire house and then refinish to the wife's chosen color.
I tell you all of this to answer to your question as to why someone would want to glue down 3/4 hardwood over concrete. So, the answer is... "because it is what we have and it was free!
Additionally, installing a 3/4" or even a 1/2" subfloor onto the slab first would not work as the room can't handle the additional height this would bring.The slab has 9x9 1960's VAT floor tile that I have had tested for asbestos and yes, it has a small percentage, but apparently not friable unless broken up.
Many of the tiles have lifted edges, and some have broken corners. Many of the tiles will pop off pretty easily in one piece with minimal effort from a scraper pushed underneath. Still, they do contain asbestos, and I'd much rather just cover them up and encapsulate them under the vinyl membrane. Looks like they were adhered with a tar based adhesive underneath, which is likely asbestos as well.
So... my thoughts are to only remove the loose tiles with lifted edges, leave the rest, fill in to level out the areas without tiles, and then go with your glue and vinyl membrane method, and then finally glueing the hardwood onto the vinyl.
Any suggestion on what to use to level out where the tiles will be missing underneath the vinyl layer? Replacement 9x9 tiles? A compound? In order to remove the wax from the remaining tiles prior to gluing down the vinyl layer, I planned on wiping the remaining tiles with a methyl hydrate and laquer thinner mix first.
Am I on the right track?
Thanks
Don