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Topic "how to get a Waterlox look on Ipe?" a message from skyjumper

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we're installing 800sf Ipe. i like the look of Waterlox on Ipe. I prefer the durability and ease of application of a waterbased finish like traffic.

how can I get the best of both worlds?

here's a pic of my test boards. Waterlox on the left. Waterbased clear on the right. no comparison.

Topic "Bevels routed into a white oak strip floor." a message from S. Kelly

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Working in a house built in the 30s here in Tucson. White oak strip nailed to joist, pretty typical in older homes here. This one has a section of flooring that has a bevel routed every 2nd, 3rd, 4th or 5th board, kinda random width. Then there is a perpendicular bevel cut in to define the faux plank & walnut pegs at the ends. These pegs are purely decorative & don't correspond to the joists. The end bevels across boards. The whole thing is done for looks only.
I've seen three houses with this treatment. All built in the 30s. I'm curious as to how common this was (or maybe still is) & what this technique might be called. Probably has another name than what I've been calling it - "somebody went through a lot of trouble to screw up a perfectly good white oak floor."

Topic "tenting on wood installation" a message from steve k

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we installed 1/2 thick random width plank on both wood and concrete floors. Within a day of the floor being installed it started to tent along the joint of the 5" and 2" board.
Is there a possibility of the joint being bad? We used a top grade urathane adhesive.

Topic "Engineered wood adhesive recommendation" a message from broadstone

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I have to install engineered wood floors over concrete soon. We are going to test for moisture this week. We have been recommended the Taylor MS Plus product for adhesive. Presuming I don't have any moisture issues, do I also need a moisture barrier as well as the Taylor MS plus?

Thanks

Topic "Chatter Chatter Everywhere" a message from Hammer's Hardwood Floors

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Hello,

Long story here so please bear with me...


I have been sanding floors for about 8 years and used a variety of Belt Sanders. This ranges from an older Galaxy that was not well cared for or even had the tension on the V-belts loosened ever to an extremely well cared for Bona Belt. These machines always cut beautifully. I started my own company last year and purchased a Clarke Floorcrafter 8 which has left chatter marks in the floor since the day I got it. Clarke has not stepped up regarding the warranty. Every time I call I get a different list of companies in the Chicago area (I'm down state Illinois) that I have to call to see if they do warranty work. After calling several and getting told either they DO work on the sanders, but do NOT do warranty work, or they DO work on Clarke products but NOT floor sanders, I finally after 7 months found a place. They took it, bent the front clasp for the door, and gave me my machine back with the tracking set so far off it was cutting into the eye bolt on the tensioner. As soon as I adjusted the tracking to move the paper back to the middle of the drum the chatter has come back worse than ever.


I saw the other thread regarding chatter with a Clarke Floorcrafter and I can assure you this is in the floors character, not the topography. No waves, just little lines about a 1/2 inch apart all through the floor. I have taken the v-belts off and ran the machine to listen to the motor and it is smooth. Adding the fan belt, it still sounds and feels smooth. With no fan and the upper roller assembly removed with only the drive belt attached to the drum, I think I might hear a slight wobble, but it's nearly nonexistent. I am pretty sure the problem is in the upper roller assembly because as soon as I put everything back together I can hear a noticeable vibration, see the drive belt as well as any sand paper wobble as if it is not tight. I ruined the first set of V-belts I had for it because I thought it just wasn't tight enough and over tightened them and stretched them out. The inside of the paper I use (Bona Blue) has marks as if the paper is sliding. I tried to adjust the tension to the point I could barely get the paper on and this problem still exists!

At this point I am giving up on Clarke's Customer Service helping me through the warranty which is up at the end of May. (Not happy to have spent $5,000+ on a machine that has never worked properly by the way). I just want my sander to stop costing me money through the extra time and materials to double-side disc the problem away. Can anyone recommend a reputable repair shop as close to Central Illinois as possible that can once and for all fix my machine? I am a do it your selfer, so if there are any adjustments I can try (and I have tried a few) to eliminate this myself I am more than willing to give that a shot as well. Given the other thread on this topic with the same exact problem with the same exact machine it leaves me wondering if there is something inherently wrong with this sander. Any help is certainly welcome as business is getting ready to have to expand and I can't do that without a properly working machine. Thanks in Advance!!

Topic "worst reaction you ca have!" a message from Plepine

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Here is a floor washed with oil murphy. 2 appartemntt had no vernish at all so the oil destruyes it. We tryied Moistucure vernish , We trydied Synteko Classic and didnt wori either . Only Saman water base work.

Topic "Product and maybe contractor?" a message from Ray

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Hello...
About 8 years ago, my husband and I sanded and refinished our downstairs floor (apprx 13ft--oak in 3 rooms, maple in living room) with Osmo Polyox. We used their "Oak" color on prior to the clear finish. We had to add their Red Cedar color to the maple floor to get somewhat of a color match to the oak. But, we are just fine with that. We have never had to do ANYTHING with it at all other than the usual mopping/cleaning. We even had dogs and teens then.

Now, we are ready to do the upstairs. This time, it seems more daunting for some reason (8 years older now....?) The upstairs is ALL maple. We are not married to Osmo which as you all know is very very expensive. Any suggestions on that or a different product. We definitely want the Hardwax look and feel. Even better, perhaps...anyone know any contractors in the Milwaukee WI area in case we just want to turn it over to the pros? THank you VERY much.
Ray

Topic "Hartco Pattern Plus Hardwood floor" a message from sram

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I read your suggestions on how to renew a Hartco wood floor. My floor is 24 years old and am not sure if it's a pattern plus 2000 or 5000. Am I correct in assuming a professional sanding machine will not work for sanding this floor? We would like to do the refinishing ourselves and have 280 sqr ft of hardwood. It would be quite a job to sand it with a belt sander.

Topic "Mohawk Strand Bamboo Separation" a message from jtraviss09

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This is my first post, so please be kind.

I had a floating Mohawk Strand Woven Bamboo floor installed by a licensed installer in North Texas. Since the installation, each winter we see separation at specific points in the floor. After the first winter, the installer returned to "re-seat" the flooring. During the second winter, we had the same problem in the same areas. Two inspectors were sent and both reported that the installation did not meet the requirements of the installation guide. The installer decided that there are only 2 options: 1 - install t-molding thresholds at the locations showing the problem, 2 - install tile in the foyer to reduce the continuous length of the bamboo floor. Neither of these options appeal to us as both result in a non-continuous floor.

Are there any other options that would allow us to retain a continuous, single material floor? We love the look of our floor, but obviously we cannot have the floor separating. Has anyone used a combination of glued & floating to effectively reduce the continuous length?

Topic "Question" a message from LesFlo

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Looking at a Re-Finish of Chilean Cherry.
Not familiar with it.

Input?

Topic "Different Eng Adhesive Question" a message from LesFlo

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Had a client ask me,
'Will rolling a piano across a floating floor break the bond between boards'?

The answer of course is Don't ever roll a piano across a Hardwood Floor.

Stiil it piqued my curiosity
I will be using T&G adhesive they tell me remains flexible

Topic "Manufacturer to match an existing floor" a message from MSummitt

Topic "Water Marks in Floor!" a message from jordanw

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We just finished sanding our small hallway and after starting to apply the ebony stain I noticed cat paw prints! It turns out our cat must have water popped the floor with his paws. I stopped staining, therefore I do not know what other areas of the floor might be affected. Any recommendations on the best course of action? One thought was to water pop the entire floor. This is a DIY project so not sure about the expertise needed for water popping.

Background on the sanding process. We had to do this by hand and with a belt sander. We used 36, 60 and 80 grit. Any recommendations would be much appreciated and thank you in advance.

Topic "Hallmark floating floor started crackling [video]" a message from abmadison

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A comment on our Facebook page this morning: [font='lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif]"I have a Hallmark floating floor that has started to crackle. Is there something I can do to correct this problem?"

[/font]
See video here.
edited by abmadison on 3/20/2014

Topic "Install floor in room with odd shape" a message from abmadison

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From a Reddit post found here. I'll post any responses in this forum to the original post on Reddit.
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Hi DIY,
After having lurked in this subreddit for a while, I think it is time for me to step out of the bush and ask for help.
I want to install a "click" type floor in my patio. The shape of the room is a problem though, I am not sure how to start, but the main problem is which tactic I should use in regard to the "excess floor" infront of the doors ?
I have attached a couple of pictures form the room and the blueprint showing what areas I am talking about.
Imgur link illustrating the problem: (example of one of the "excess floor" areas marked in red) http://imgur.com/a/KduZm
DISCLAIMER: I have ZERO experience with DIY projects, but reckon is a great beginners project!

Topic "Subfloor" a message from skmuniz

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I have 104 year old house that had hardwood flooring in the living room and dinning room. We had pipes burst and water damage. When they took out the floors there was no subfloors. The six foot planks of Hardwood was right on the rafters. Before I have new floors put in do I need to put down a subfloor? The house is located in MD.
SKM

Topic "Effects of low Relative Humidity & High RH" a message from Jim Decker

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See attached article from Floor Trends Magazine regarding the above titled subject.
I have found low rh in winter in the desert 1% to 2% top 5% to 6% bottom. Cupping and board separation resulting in a call for inspection sometimes homeowner sometimes mfg. Few times with evaporative coolers here have found readings from 13% mc to 19% and floor buckling from the concrete slab.

Topic "gap between one floor plank and shoe molding" a message from jbs2

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We are having strand woven bamboo solids put in our new construction home. They are glued down on the concrete slab. We went by too look at the floors and noticed two spots that worry us. I attached photos of both spots.

The first spot has a noticeable gap between one plank and the shoe molding on the baseboard. From my understanding, the shoe molding is supposed to cover the gaps along the baseboard. I don't know if there is a fix for this and would appreciate your input.

The second spot is along the door to our back patio. The ends of the planks are visible and of different lengths. For this spot, I was wondering if adding some type of threshold or shoe molding could correct it. If not, what would you recommend?

Thanks.

Topic "Exstreame advanced school" a message from JLVivash

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David this sounds good. Is it being recognized by NWFA so we can get credits?

Topic "Engineered over radiant" a message from JLVivash

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Feeling a little hesitant about giving a customer what they want. I've done lots of engineered over radiant, always solid sawn 3 ply, normally rift/ quarter sawn. This customer wants 7" face sawn white oak so we can wire brush and have a 2 tone HWO. Radiant heated subfloor is a geothermal driven hydronic heating tubes imbedded in gypcrete. They will be used as main heat source. They have a secondary forced air furnace with steam injection humidification. We've gone over R/H issues. I will install a sensor to protect myself from temp spikes if they occur. We are installing by strapping together, weighting down 40 lbs every 40 Sqft while glue cures. Gluing using mapei Eco 995 using thick notch. We all know something or someone will slip eventually and heat will be too high/RH to low. Will this 7" face sawn, solid sawn 3 ply floor handle it?

Have you inspectors seen problems (shrinkage/dry cupping) with wider face sawn engineered even with all these precautions in place? 4000 Sqft so big job= big potential problem right.
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