I am just starting up a new business and I'm going into it a little blind. I know lots about the work part but little about the business part of running a business. I'm just looking for some helpful tips on things like contracts, taxes, bidding jobs, ect. Anything is helpful.
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Topic "Just Starting" a message from DivineHWF
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Topic "1/2" x 3 1/2" Engineered Hardwood - Delaminating" a message from Jim Decker
Hardwood floors are not the only product that have unrealistic conditions. Thoroughly vacuum carpet weekly! Defined as running the vacuum over the same spot 4 times up and down. If you find sand on top of the pad has this happened? Proof of shampooing carpet once every 2 years with proof of having it done. Doesn't matter if you have your own carpet cleaner. Must have proof. Shiny vinyls keep grit, also known as sand, off the floor as it will cause gloss reduction. The list is endless! Do not use regular gas in some vehicles as it may damage the engine and cause pinging. Quit slamming hardwood floors follow common sense if not the mfg guidelines.
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Topic "Aching legs on concrete sub floor" a message from S. Kelly
Lori - you might consider reposting this under "installations." It would probably get more views & responses.
There are engineered products manufactured for a floating application. There are any number of underlayment so that might provide a bit of give that might help you.
If you want solid wood with a bit of flex, I can think of a few ways of working what you will be nailing to. You could rip 3/4" plywood into 2"-3" stringers & set them 16" apart. This would approximate the feel of a floor on joist. You could put rubber cushion soles under sleepers & nail to them, have done this with in many gym & exercise rooms. Another thing would be rubber cushion soles under 1/2" ply, then staple & glue another layer of 1/2" ply on a 45 degree over & nail your flooring to it.
Probably a few other applications people can come with.
Good luck.
edited by S. Kelly on 3/1/2014
There are engineered products manufactured for a floating application. There are any number of underlayment so that might provide a bit of give that might help you.
If you want solid wood with a bit of flex, I can think of a few ways of working what you will be nailing to. You could rip 3/4" plywood into 2"-3" stringers & set them 16" apart. This would approximate the feel of a floor on joist. You could put rubber cushion soles under sleepers & nail to them, have done this with in many gym & exercise rooms. Another thing would be rubber cushion soles under 1/2" ply, then staple & glue another layer of 1/2" ply on a 45 degree over & nail your flooring to it.
Probably a few other applications people can come with.
Good luck.
edited by S. Kelly on 3/1/2014
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Topic "tinting finish with analine dyes" a message from scarls5
I used tint in my second finish coat and unfortunately there's been a delay before I can get a top coat on there. Do I have to buff the tinted coat, and if I do will it make the color more spotty? Use some kind of adhesion enhancer instead?
I used 1 oz transtint + 2 oz amberizer to a gallon, and the color is great. It didn't go down super even, so either get someone more skilled to do it, or use less with more coats as recommended. So a second question is, should I go ahead with buffing then add (less) tint again to my top coat?
I used 1 oz transtint + 2 oz amberizer to a gallon, and the color is great. It didn't go down super even, so either get someone more skilled to do it, or use less with more coats as recommended. So a second question is, should I go ahead with buffing then add (less) tint again to my top coat?
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Topic "change color/depth water based finish" a message from scarls5
I added 1 oz transtint dark maple and 2 oz amberizer per gallon to my second coat waterbourne finish. I'm very happy with the color, though it is spotty in places as advised. Probably could have stepped it back and had a more experienced contractor.
Question - I had a delay before I can get the top coat done. Can I/do I have to buff this colored coat, and if so will it screw up the evenness of my color? Add more color to the top coat to even it out again? Something else? Thanks.
Question - I had a delay before I can get the top coat done. Can I/do I have to buff this colored coat, and if so will it screw up the evenness of my color? Add more color to the top coat to even it out again? Something else? Thanks.
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Topic "re coating?? Bona maintenance" a message from jpepperly
Our hickory floors are 15 years old and well taken care of. General wear and tear and they were very dull even after cleaning. We researched our options of refinishing, issues after polishing etc. We decided to try Bona High Gloss floor polish. AMAZING! We are so pleased with the product. We cleaned the floors with Bona hardwood floor cleaner and then applied the Bona High Gloss Polish. The floors truly look like we just had them refinished. Highly recommend the product! Make sure the floor is "very" clean and follow the directions and you'll be very satisfied. If you feel refinishing is your only option then you have nothing to lose other than $50.00 bucks and an afternoon. As a side note our floors are fairly light in color, unsure how it will perform on darker color floors. As with any product test a small area first before applying to the entire floor.
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Topic "Hardwax oil on Douglas Fir flooring" a message from jsurgent
I am looking for a Hardwax oil product that can give me a low luster wax appearance on my VG Douglas Fir floors. I used Pallmans Magic Oil on my Ipe flooring in the entry way that turned out beautiful. The would is a tropical wood, very dense and full of natural oils. It will buff to a nice luster with no finish.
When sampling the Pallman Product and Rubio Monocoat on the fir, the finish absorbs so much that the wood is left extremely dull.
I would like to know if there is a Hardwax oil that can give me a paste wax low luster look, or perhaps application advice. I know most of these finishes say not to sand past 120 grit for absorption reasons but all the discussions I have seen on this forum deal with Hard Wood that does not absorb like fir. Perhaps with a wood like fir it maybe better to sand to a finer grit to possibly achieve the look I am going for. More coats?
Any help on obtaining a low luster paste wax look on a Fir floor wood be appreciated. I am looking for luster not dead flat.
Thanks
Jim
edited by jsurgent on 3/4/2014
When sampling the Pallman Product and Rubio Monocoat on the fir, the finish absorbs so much that the wood is left extremely dull.
I would like to know if there is a Hardwax oil that can give me a paste wax low luster look, or perhaps application advice. I know most of these finishes say not to sand past 120 grit for absorption reasons but all the discussions I have seen on this forum deal with Hard Wood that does not absorb like fir. Perhaps with a wood like fir it maybe better to sand to a finer grit to possibly achieve the look I am going for. More coats?
Any help on obtaining a low luster paste wax look on a Fir floor wood be appreciated. I am looking for luster not dead flat.
Thanks
Jim
edited by jsurgent on 3/4/2014
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Topic "Time for a new edger..." a message from Arkansasandman
I have 3 super 7 and have always had great luck with them . 10 years ago I bought a bona toe kick, I think it was called a Viking, it was ok but little awkward. Finally sold it to a buddy and bought a se7 pro because the describe it as a toe kick but it doesn't fit under many I've tried, so now I'm scraping toe kicks again until I find another better one.
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Topic "(cross posted) Need Help - Refinishing Issue" a message from Arkansasandman
I've seen this as well, usually a thorough cleaning with denatured alcohol,then screen,vacuume and clean again with denatured alcohol before final tac.
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Topic "Help! Need advice fast please." a message from Arkansasandman
I believe what woody said is correct ,but I have fixed many floors that have swirl marks under the water finish by screening with 220 and buffing with 3m maroon prep pads to smooth and degloss. At that point you can coat with oil or water with great results.
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Topic "Whats your favorite hardwood floor cleaner?" a message from Arkansasandman
50/50 denatured alcohol and water works well. But a little smelly
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Topic "Advice on engineered floating flooring" a message from mein1
Before we buy flooring, I am trying to learn more about it and I am grateful for any information you can give me.
We live in the Pacific Northwest.
Our house has 3/4" OSB subflooring. Because of OSB's problems holding nails, we are thinking of floating flooring. Of approximately 900 square feet of flooring needed for our split-level house, a small portion would be installed in the basement hallway and closet (over a crawlspace and OSB subflooring). The majority of flooring would be used for the dining room and livingroom on the second level, also over OSB.
We would have the flooring professionally installed.
I would be grateful for advice on what brands would give us the best chance of getting a floor that would last and wouldn't buckle. We would be looking for these features:
thicker wear layer that could be sanded if needed in the future
good locking system
Any advice on the best edging: beveled or straight?
Our furniture is not abnormally heavy, but I worry about click lock flooring coming apart under stress. Can this be prevented?
I believe a lighter shade of wood would work best for us and wonder what type of finish might not show scratches (we have a small dog).
We live in the Pacific Northwest.
Our house has 3/4" OSB subflooring. Because of OSB's problems holding nails, we are thinking of floating flooring. Of approximately 900 square feet of flooring needed for our split-level house, a small portion would be installed in the basement hallway and closet (over a crawlspace and OSB subflooring). The majority of flooring would be used for the dining room and livingroom on the second level, also over OSB.
We would have the flooring professionally installed.
I would be grateful for advice on what brands would give us the best chance of getting a floor that would last and wouldn't buckle. We would be looking for these features:
thicker wear layer that could be sanded if needed in the future
good locking system
Any advice on the best edging: beveled or straight?
Our furniture is not abnormally heavy, but I worry about click lock flooring coming apart under stress. Can this be prevented?
I believe a lighter shade of wood would work best for us and wonder what type of finish might not show scratches (we have a small dog).
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Topic "belt sander maintenance" a message from jmr08260
my floorcrafter drum has a uneven groove about 1/4 in wide and about a 1/16 deep.how can i dress off the drum to remedy this?
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Topic "Checking, cracking New Premier Prefin. Red Oak" a message from mk
We noticed problems 2 days after Premier Prefinnished Red Oak floors were installed - cracks, peeling checking, holes... After surviving Hurricane Sandy, completing Post Sandy renovation and finally moving back now we have to deal with yet another disaster!
Floors were installed over a brand new sub-floor.
We purchased 820 sq. ft. of Prefinished Premier Red Oak floor on February 9th 2014.
The floor had been installed during the week of February 23rd. While installing the floor, the crew noticed that some of the planks were defective, not uniform in color, have see-through holes, grooves, etc; total of 4 boxes of unusable material.
We contacted the dealer and he instructed us to call the manufacturer. The manufacturer told us to bring the floor back to the Dealer for inspection and see what should be done next. Our contractor took the floor back to them for an exchange, but the dealer refused to take it back, stating that the floor is perfectly fine.
Out of desperation, we purchased additional 4 boxes of floor so that we could complete the job and finally move back in to our house.
The job was completed on February 28th and we moved back in on March 1st. In the evening with the lights on, we noticed that the planks were cracked. It turns out that almost every other plank has some sort of defect. They are either cracked and the “prefinished” part is peeling off, or they have holes, or both. Most of them have checks! The surface is very soft and not durable at all. Almost everything leaves a very noticeable dent. We have not even lived on it and it is coming apart!!!
All 902 sq. ft. (110%) of the “Premier floor” that we ended up buying turned out to be damaged/defective.
We contacted the manufacturer via email and attached some pictures. When I spoke to them today, I was appalled. The guy (a senior at the company) was not nice and said that he could not see anything in the pictures and that the floor is perfectly fine and that we are looking for the impossible perfection. I am attaching the same pictures to this post. I asked if he could send a company rep to look at the floor; he said that they don't do it and that on top of it they are in Georgia and we are on Long Island, New York. He told me that they don't deal with customers and everything should go through the place that we bought it from, and that they should send an inspector, and only if they determine that it's the manufacturing defect they will contact the manufacture and the manufacturer will decide what to do. He was not willing to discuss their 15 year warranty, stating again that they do not deal with the end customer. When I contacted the dealer, he told me that he does not do the inspections and we should hire a certified inspector ourselves, pay for his services and present it to him.
We chose an American company over Canadian and Chinese thinking that we will get a better quality product and customer service... we were wrong...
We are still dealing with Home and Flood Insurances and have spent so much money on rebuilding and restoring our home after Sandy, including this floor and it's installation, I just don't know what to do at this point.
To avoid confusion, I am only attaching the pictures of the floors that has been installed, not the part that was clearly bad and was rejected by our contractor.
Please help!
Thank you so much!
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Floors were installed over a brand new sub-floor.
We purchased 820 sq. ft. of Prefinished Premier Red Oak floor on February 9th 2014.
The floor had been installed during the week of February 23rd. While installing the floor, the crew noticed that some of the planks were defective, not uniform in color, have see-through holes, grooves, etc; total of 4 boxes of unusable material.
We contacted the dealer and he instructed us to call the manufacturer. The manufacturer told us to bring the floor back to the Dealer for inspection and see what should be done next. Our contractor took the floor back to them for an exchange, but the dealer refused to take it back, stating that the floor is perfectly fine.
Out of desperation, we purchased additional 4 boxes of floor so that we could complete the job and finally move back in to our house.
The job was completed on February 28th and we moved back in on March 1st. In the evening with the lights on, we noticed that the planks were cracked. It turns out that almost every other plank has some sort of defect. They are either cracked and the “prefinished” part is peeling off, or they have holes, or both. Most of them have checks! The surface is very soft and not durable at all. Almost everything leaves a very noticeable dent. We have not even lived on it and it is coming apart!!!
All 902 sq. ft. (110%) of the “Premier floor” that we ended up buying turned out to be damaged/defective.
We contacted the manufacturer via email and attached some pictures. When I spoke to them today, I was appalled. The guy (a senior at the company) was not nice and said that he could not see anything in the pictures and that the floor is perfectly fine and that we are looking for the impossible perfection. I am attaching the same pictures to this post. I asked if he could send a company rep to look at the floor; he said that they don't do it and that on top of it they are in Georgia and we are on Long Island, New York. He told me that they don't deal with customers and everything should go through the place that we bought it from, and that they should send an inspector, and only if they determine that it's the manufacturing defect they will contact the manufacture and the manufacturer will decide what to do. He was not willing to discuss their 15 year warranty, stating again that they do not deal with the end customer. When I contacted the dealer, he told me that he does not do the inspections and we should hire a certified inspector ourselves, pay for his services and present it to him.
We chose an American company over Canadian and Chinese thinking that we will get a better quality product and customer service... we were wrong...
We are still dealing with Home and Flood Insurances and have spent so much money on rebuilding and restoring our home after Sandy, including this floor and it's installation, I just don't know what to do at this point.
To avoid confusion, I am only attaching the pictures of the floors that has been installed, not the part that was clearly bad and was rejected by our contractor.
Please help!
Thank you so much!
, 
, 
, , 
, 
,
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Topic "Drum sander gouged my floor" a message from Arkansasandman
S. Kelly wrote:
Best of luck. Sanding & finishing floors is not easy even with the best equipment.
One of the saddest, most frustrating things about bidding jobs is running into a do it yourself sanded floor. Divots here, there & everywhere. A nice deep furrow along the wall. Someone spent a lot of time & energy (did I mention that it's not easy?) & basically took a couple standings out of the life of that floor because to fix it it will take a cross sanding to underneath those divots.
My advice is to hire a professional but, in lieu of that, best of luck.
One of the saddest, most frustrating things about bidding jobs is running into a do it yourself sanded floor. Divots here, there & everywhere. A nice deep furrow along the wall. Someone spent a lot of time & energy (did I mention that it's not easy?) & basically took a couple standings out of the life of that floor because to fix it it will take a cross sanding to underneath those divots.
My advice is to hire a professional but, in lieu of that, best of luck.
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Topic "Manufacturer to match an existing floor" a message from dbwatson
Curt S,
If you could send me a piece of the floor we most likely can match it.
Thank you
If you could send me a piece of the floor we most likely can match it.
Thank you
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Topic "27 year old hearts of pine flooring; adding new" a message from Ciranova
You should be able to color match old and new planks with Ciranova Reactive Stains but this does take some experimenting and experience with chemical stains for a good match.
To get close to that look, using a reactive or mixing two, even with a little water will give you various aged looks, wood all ages differently under different conditions but with the reactive greys and browns you should be able to get close. You won't see the final color until an oil is applied, after the stain is fully dried. I would suggest even the first coat to be just clear maintenance oil on the new wood and then 2 coats of magic hardwax oil - natural over everything. The look won't be far from what's there now but repel the water and give you resistance mechanical abrasion.
This is probably for an experienced professional, it's not just the color you will be matching but the look and feel of the floor...
Daniel Brooks
General Manager
Ciranova North America
Tel +1(415) 282 2529
Cell +1(510) 423 2292
Fax +1(415) 546 0451
1255 22nd Street
San Francisco CA 94107
www.ciranova-na.com
To get close to that look, using a reactive or mixing two, even with a little water will give you various aged looks, wood all ages differently under different conditions but with the reactive greys and browns you should be able to get close. You won't see the final color until an oil is applied, after the stain is fully dried. I would suggest even the first coat to be just clear maintenance oil on the new wood and then 2 coats of magic hardwax oil - natural over everything. The look won't be far from what's there now but repel the water and give you resistance mechanical abrasion.
This is probably for an experienced professional, it's not just the color you will be matching but the look and feel of the floor...
Daniel Brooks
General Manager
Ciranova North America
Tel +1(415) 282 2529
Cell +1(510) 423 2292
Fax +1(415) 546 0451
1255 22nd Street
San Francisco CA 94107
www.ciranova-na.com
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Topic "Walnut Flooring Grading Specifications" a message from JET
Anybody know where I can find these? with pictures and grading rules?
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Topic "Just Starting" a message from Jeff
Same here...
jeff@oldmillhardwoodfloors.com
jeff@oldmillhardwoodfloors.com
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Topic "TERMS AND CONDITIONS" a message from Jim Decker
In reading some of the things that I see posted I wonder if those individuals utilize terms and conditions and stick to them. I will post ours and see if maybe we have missed anything by your responses.
Terms & Conditions of Sale directly incorporated to XYZ’s Proposal
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BASEBOARDS / TRIM & TRANSITIONS:
We will remove existing baseboards at no charge if customer accepts complete responsibility for possible damage to them or to the wall. We will re-install customer’s existing baseboards for an additional fee of $1.00 per linear foot (hang, touch up with customer supplied paint and caulk). We need to allow for expansion and contraction of your new wood floor and will leave a gap between the wood and all walls or perpendicular surfaces. This gap may or may not be covered by your existing baseboard. Since most concrete sub-floors have a certain “wave” to them, base shoe or quarter round may be necessary to hide gaps. We can furnish and install new quarter round, base shoe or baseboards, unfinished or completely finished, for an additional charge. Please ask your salesperson for prices and samples if interested. Unless stated on our written proposal, baseboards are never included in our estimates. We always re-tuck existing carpet to new wood. If desired, we can furnish & install color coordinating transitions for an additional charge.
CARE OF YOUR NEW WOOD FLOOR: **VERY IMPORTANT!
Please purchase a humidifier or dehumidifier and maintain the relative humidity inside your home at 30% to 50% and the temperature between 65° and 85° to prevent wrinkling, checking, splitting, over expansion or over contraction of your new wood floor. If not, you risk losing your manufacturer finish warranties due to the dryness in El Paso. Initial here x
DEPOSITS:
Deposits on all orders are only refundable if product HAS NOT shipped or was IN STOCK) or if shipped requires a RESTOCKING CHARGE from the our supplier, generally 20% to 30% plus return shipping costs.
INSTALLATION:
A) All new floor covering installations of materials supplied by us are warranted for 12 months from date of installation if total amount due has been paid or is being paid. The installation of customer supplied materials is NOT warranted due to various factors beyond our control and NO warranties, implied or expressed, are given.
B) We will not be responsible for:
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Old supply valves leaking from commodes or sinks.
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Connection / disconnection of appliances / electronics (Icemakers, ranges, dryers, computers, stereos, etc.)
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Paying a cleaning person due to sawdust. We try as hard as possible to cover with plastic and use vacuum systems, but you can expect a certain amount of dust. Remember, this is construction!
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Moving heavy or large furniture or valuables of any kind. We will gladly help to move heavy furniture at no charge as long as it is understood that we WILL NOT be held responsible for possible damages (walls, furniture, floor, etc.). Preferably, please contract a moving agency. In any event all items removable by one person will be the homeowners responsibility.
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Damage to furniture and/or valuables not safely removed by buyer
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Disposal of carpet that smells of urine or other deplorable odors.
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Commodes that have old seals that crack and leak when removing & replacing during installation
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Pets that are lost because the customer did not make arrangements with a kennel.
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Installing new thresholds. We will install a new threshold for an additional charge.
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Cutting doors to fit new carpet, tile or wood. We will cut doors for an additional fee when necessary.
NEW WOOD APPEARANCE AND BEHAVIOR:
A) Wood floor products are not tabletop material. Depending on the manufacturer, the edges are sometimes not completely square or flat, but within the tolerances established by the NWFA (National Wood Flooring Association), NOFMA (National Oak Flooring Manufacturers Assoc.) or MFMA (Maple). Rest assured you will NOT trip on any “overwood”
B) We need to acclimate your floor prior to installation. All doors, windows and HVAC must be working & product must be inside home from 1 to 10 days depending on whether it is solid hardwood or amount of plies of engineered wood.
C) On occasion, you may detect a “popping” noise. Although it is unlikely, it could happen. Rest assured that this can be normal and is usually caused by expansion & contraction of the wood or slight dips in the substrate and is not a problem if the surrounding planks are solidly bonded. Hollow sounding boards without movement are considered acceptable.
D) If you purchased Cabin Grade or Off Goods, you can expect a lovely, characteristic floor, but will not have a manufacturer’s warranty.
E) If you “inspect” your floor, please remember that all inspections need to be done 5’ up, 2’ out and not in direct lighting as per industry standards.
PREPARATION:
A) Since subfloor conditions are not always determinable when area is measured, customer agrees to an additional charge of $70.00 per 25# bag, should it be necessary to properly float or straighten subfloor to tolerances specified by the NWFA. Should the sub-floor have a “bulge” which requires sanding or chipping, there will be an additional minimum charge of $125.00. Customer will be advised when necessary. You can reject our recommendations, but will need to sign a “Waiver of Responsibility” or make the necessary corrections yourself or your own cement contractor. If wood underlayment is necessary, we quote it on a per job basis.
B) Removal of ceramic or stone products, old vinyl asbestos tile, asbestos backed “battleship” linoleum and/or black cutback adhesive will result in an additional minimum charge of $200.00 for removal and disposal. Initial here x
REPAIRS OR SANDING & REFINISHING:
A) Repairs and Refinishing work are NOT warranted due to various factors beyond our control and NO warranties, implied or expressed, are given.
B) We will be glad to make samples for your approval, with the understanding that
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The actual color will vary because of the amount and gloss level of the topcoats or because of the age and dryness of your existing wood and,
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When you select one, we will stain it, but there will be an additional charge for re-sanding if customer does not like it “after all”.
C) Sometimes the floor absorbs more finish due to age, dryness or various factors beyond our control and extra coats may be necessary for an additional charge of $.30 per coat per square foot. We CANNOT guarantee duplicating existing wood floors with new repairs!
D) We need to have access to a 220 volt power source or an additional charge of $100.00 per day will be charged for a generator.
E) We will not be responsible for breakage of frames, ornaments, window treatments, etc. not safely removed from the walls or furniture by customer. We are only human, so please remove all items that you do not want to risk breaking.
SAMPLES:
Wood is a natural product that varies from piece to piece. Remember, it is milled from a tree and will have grain and color variances. The sample you see may be different from the actual product. Some species have a high degree of variance in grain and tone of color, therefore all materials ordered by customer shall be accepted by customer as delivered to Wood Floors by Beto. (i.e. darker or lighter tone on hardwood than on stairnose or transition).
EXCLUSIONS:
Moving furniture, MAJOR floor prep, climate control, underlayment, initial floor protection, finished floor protection, waxing, sealing and temperature control.
[font="Calibri","sans-serif"]HOMEOWNER RESPONSIBILITIES[/font]:
We will supply you with the National Wood Flooring Association Technical Bulletin No. A100 regarding what to expect from your hardwood floor regarding your responsibilities in caring for your floors and what may occur when mfg’s requirements are not adhered to. Also Some tips on maintence.
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Accepted by: Date:
[font="Calibri","sans-serif"] [/font]
[font="Calibri","sans-serif"] [/font]
[font="Calibri","sans-serif"] [/font]
[font="Calibri","sans-serif"] [/font]
[font="Calibri","sans-serif"] [/font]
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[font="Calibri","sans-serif"]Witnessed by: Date: [/font]
Terms & Conditions of Sale directly incorporated to XYZ’s Proposal
BASEBOARDS / TRIM & TRANSITIONS:
We will remove existing baseboards at no charge if customer accepts complete responsibility for possible damage to them or to the wall. We will re-install customer’s existing baseboards for an additional fee of $1.00 per linear foot (hang, touch up with customer supplied paint and caulk). We need to allow for expansion and contraction of your new wood floor and will leave a gap between the wood and all walls or perpendicular surfaces. This gap may or may not be covered by your existing baseboard. Since most concrete sub-floors have a certain “wave” to them, base shoe or quarter round may be necessary to hide gaps. We can furnish and install new quarter round, base shoe or baseboards, unfinished or completely finished, for an additional charge. Please ask your salesperson for prices and samples if interested. Unless stated on our written proposal, baseboards are never included in our estimates. We always re-tuck existing carpet to new wood. If desired, we can furnish & install color coordinating transitions for an additional charge.
CARE OF YOUR NEW WOOD FLOOR: **VERY IMPORTANT!
Please purchase a humidifier or dehumidifier and maintain the relative humidity inside your home at 30% to 50% and the temperature between 65° and 85° to prevent wrinkling, checking, splitting, over expansion or over contraction of your new wood floor. If not, you risk losing your manufacturer finish warranties due to the dryness in El Paso. Initial here x
DEPOSITS:
Deposits on all orders are only refundable if product HAS NOT shipped or was IN STOCK) or if shipped requires a RESTOCKING CHARGE from the our supplier, generally 20% to 30% plus return shipping costs.
INSTALLATION:
A) All new floor covering installations of materials supplied by us are warranted for 12 months from date of installation if total amount due has been paid or is being paid. The installation of customer supplied materials is NOT warranted due to various factors beyond our control and NO warranties, implied or expressed, are given.
B) We will not be responsible for:
Old supply valves leaking from commodes or sinks. Connection / disconnection of appliances / electronics (Icemakers, ranges, dryers, computers, stereos, etc.) Paying a cleaning person due to sawdust. We try as hard as possible to cover with plastic and use vacuum systems, but you can expect a certain amount of dust. Remember, this is construction! Moving heavy or large furniture or valuables of any kind. We will gladly help to move heavy furniture at no charge as long as it is understood that we WILL NOT be held responsible for possible damages (walls, furniture, floor, etc.). Preferably, please contract a moving agency. In any event all items removable by one person will be the homeowners responsibility. Damage to furniture and/or valuables not safely removed by buyer Disposal of carpet that smells of urine or other deplorable odors. Commodes that have old seals that crack and leak when removing & replacing during installation Pets that are lost because the customer did not make arrangements with a kennel. Installing new thresholds. We will install a new threshold for an additional charge. Cutting doors to fit new carpet, tile or wood. We will cut doors for an additional fee when necessary.NEW WOOD APPEARANCE AND BEHAVIOR:
A) Wood floor products are not tabletop material. Depending on the manufacturer, the edges are sometimes not completely square or flat, but within the tolerances established by the NWFA (National Wood Flooring Association), NOFMA (National Oak Flooring Manufacturers Assoc.) or MFMA (Maple). Rest assured you will NOT trip on any “overwood”
B) We need to acclimate your floor prior to installation. All doors, windows and HVAC must be working & product must be inside home from 1 to 10 days depending on whether it is solid hardwood or amount of plies of engineered wood.
C) On occasion, you may detect a “popping” noise. Although it is unlikely, it could happen. Rest assured that this can be normal and is usually caused by expansion & contraction of the wood or slight dips in the substrate and is not a problem if the surrounding planks are solidly bonded. Hollow sounding boards without movement are considered acceptable.
D) If you purchased Cabin Grade or Off Goods, you can expect a lovely, characteristic floor, but will not have a manufacturer’s warranty.
E) If you “inspect” your floor, please remember that all inspections need to be done 5’ up, 2’ out and not in direct lighting as per industry standards.
PREPARATION:
A) Since subfloor conditions are not always determinable when area is measured, customer agrees to an additional charge of $70.00 per 25# bag, should it be necessary to properly float or straighten subfloor to tolerances specified by the NWFA. Should the sub-floor have a “bulge” which requires sanding or chipping, there will be an additional minimum charge of $125.00. Customer will be advised when necessary. You can reject our recommendations, but will need to sign a “Waiver of Responsibility” or make the necessary corrections yourself or your own cement contractor. If wood underlayment is necessary, we quote it on a per job basis.
B) Removal of ceramic or stone products, old vinyl asbestos tile, asbestos backed “battleship” linoleum and/or black cutback adhesive will result in an additional minimum charge of $200.00 for removal and disposal. Initial here x
REPAIRS OR SANDING & REFINISHING:
A) Repairs and Refinishing work are NOT warranted due to various factors beyond our control and NO warranties, implied or expressed, are given.
B) We will be glad to make samples for your approval, with the understanding that
The actual color will vary because of the amount and gloss level of the topcoats or because of the age and dryness of your existing wood and, When you select one, we will stain it, but there will be an additional charge for re-sanding if customer does not like it “after all”.C) Sometimes the floor absorbs more finish due to age, dryness or various factors beyond our control and extra coats may be necessary for an additional charge of $.30 per coat per square foot. We CANNOT guarantee duplicating existing wood floors with new repairs!
D) We need to have access to a 220 volt power source or an additional charge of $100.00 per day will be charged for a generator.
E) We will not be responsible for breakage of frames, ornaments, window treatments, etc. not safely removed from the walls or furniture by customer. We are only human, so please remove all items that you do not want to risk breaking.
SAMPLES:
Wood is a natural product that varies from piece to piece. Remember, it is milled from a tree and will have grain and color variances. The sample you see may be different from the actual product. Some species have a high degree of variance in grain and tone of color, therefore all materials ordered by customer shall be accepted by customer as delivered to Wood Floors by Beto. (i.e. darker or lighter tone on hardwood than on stairnose or transition).
EXCLUSIONS:
Moving furniture, MAJOR floor prep, climate control, underlayment, initial floor protection, finished floor protection, waxing, sealing and temperature control.
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We will supply you with the National Wood Flooring Association Technical Bulletin No. A100 regarding what to expect from your hardwood floor regarding your responsibilities in caring for your floors and what may occur when mfg’s requirements are not adhered to. Also Some tips on maintence.
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