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Topic "Can you put oil base poly over a bona dts sealer" a message from bluebyu!

I was wondering if you can use bona dts as the sealer than put 3 coats of duraseal poly on top?

Topic "Angry Contractor" a message from dbwatson

Sure you are bummed.

Your neighbor, the contractor, made a promise that you cannot and should not keep. This is his mistake. He is trying to pressure you into doing something that you know is wrong. Happens all the time. If you do this and something goes wrong it is on you.

The only time that I would step over a contractor, without his permission, and go to the homeowner would be to collect my money. If you really want to try and salvage your relationship stay away from his client.

Topic "Sample Contracts" a message from jvino

Good afternoon. We are just starting out and I was looking for some sample contracts that I could read through and pick through to create my own contract. I've searched google and I mostly come up with garbage. Is anyone willing to share their flooring contracts or maybe point me in the correct direction?? I'm in Oregon if that helps or matters. I know that lien laws need to be incorporated etc.

Thanks for any and all assistance. I appreciate it!!!!

Jeremiah

Topic "Staining oak floors with iron acetate" a message from JLVivash

Hey Arkansas, its fun stuff I know. It can be hard to recreate and control, depth of color on open floors compared to samples. Measure your amounts and volumes of each ingredient, the amount of time you are letting your concoction brew. When applied dont leave heavy areas, carefull not to let it too soon before oiling. I believe it keeps changing until its neutralized with oil. Sounds like fun right? Until you mess a floor up and have a Resand or worse re scrape the entire floor. Their are so many great reactive stains and pretreatments on the market now that its even more fun playing with those creations. They are more expensive obviously but weighing in the cost of resanding a floor they are worth the price having more reliable outcomes. I do still use the simple home made black reaction for french bleeds that get mostly sanded off. I've had great success with The Rubio smoked and fumed as well as the Loba brown and Grey, all excellent, consistent, reliable. They can all be diluted with water to weaken the reaction if needed. The Ciranova reactive line I have played with samples, it is so extensive i think it deserves a three day course to to fully understand the possibilities. Keep in mind reactive stains react with the Tanic acid found in woods. I used mainly white oak. The darker the board the more Tanin the darker the reaction. Any white sappy boards will react very little. The select European white oak will be the most consistent and provide cleaner more consistent reactions. Have fun. It's a great time to be a wood floor finisher.

Topic "Water Marks in Floor!" a message from dbwatson

Stop. Resand stained area as before. Orbital sand with 100 grit. Make sure cat is out of house. Re apply stain.

Topic "Expansion Joint Question" a message from bbland

I purchased click/lock engineered flooring and had an expansion joint question. Upon reading the manufacturer's installation instructions, they recommend an expansion joint for any area run 30 ft or larger. I am running hardwood from room to room and I would have two 30ft plus sections measuring from a room to room via the doorway space only. My question is: Do I need to put an expansion joint at the doorways and cover with T-molding in order break up a 30ft plus run? I included a picture for one example. Unfortunately, regardless of the direction I run the floor, I will have at least one 30ft + section. Any guidance is appreciated.

Topic "Hallmark floating floor started crackling [video]" a message from meykle

I had a floor forensics expert come in and perform an analysis on the floor and his conclusion was that the floor wasn't properly acclimated, i.e. the floor was delivered on a Tuesday and installed the next day. He also commented on a hump that was caused by the installer injecting an adhesive between the boards in order to prevent extreme movement in the floor:
http://youtu.be/_k3Y6i9ctnA

Topic "Inspector recommends entire floor needs replacing!" a message from meykle

"hey were just going to inject glue in a few spots and put wood filler in all of the holes and gaps (that would fix maybe 15% of what was wrong)"

Be careful about this. My installer injected glue in one spot of my floor and a "hump" developed. Here's a youtube video of the results of the glue injection.

http://youtu.be/_k3Y6i9ctnA

Topic "Engineered over radiant" a message from Dan Reisen

The 3 layer construction will help with the cupping, but the real concern is checking and splitting, in the event of a spike in temp or drop in RH. It is time consuming, but it may be worthwhile to coat the ends of the face layer with a sealer, to retard moisture flow out of the end grain. It will help to minimize splitting.
I would like to follow up on Avi's question. Does gypcrete have the holding power to keep the flooring in place?

Topic "Bellawood premium underlayment" a message from Prponds

My husband and I are in the process of installing a click floating engineered wood floor in our master bedroom. This is our first time trying to install flooring and we are having trouble with the underlayment. We have it all rolled out and the seams are taped but it refuses to lay flat. We prepped the subfloor correctly. The wood is 1/2" thick and I'm not sure it will be heavy enough to push down the waves in the underlayment. The guy at lumber liquidators told us not to staple it down, but since it was so wavy we stapled it around the perimeter anyway. Still wavy in the middle. Should we remove the staples and trust that the floor will flatten out the underlayment? Should we try to flatten it by stapling it more?

Topic "Homeowner: water-based vs. oil-based legality, etc" a message from Alexys

I think maybe the flooring contractor added a zero to the price the cost of oil poly.We use two types of finish and the preference is determined by the situation.

Topic "HARTCO Pattern Plus 2000 Engineered Oak floor" a message from S. Kelly

Do you think your method would work with the Gammapar acrylic impregnated stuff? The floor I looked at today was from their "exotic collection." Seemed to have a decent, sandable veneer, maybe the thickness of a nickel. Couldn't tell you what the species is. Date on the box is 5-11-05. Labeled: FPECCOR73aC1LDP - if that helps. This floor has been heavily waxed, so I'm not even considering a buff & coat.
How much you wanting for your secret formula?

Topic "Combined Glued & Floating Floor?" a message from jtraviss09

Does anyone have experience in combining glued & floating hardwood floors? The span in our house exceeds the manufacturer’s installation limit and we would like to install a floor without thresholds/T-moldings. My thought was to glue the center section (the connecting foyer) while floating the floors in the rooms on either side, extending the glued floor to a wide area beyond the thresholds between rooms? Assuming that I can retain a continuous height to keep the floor level, what issues should I expect?

Topic "Expansion Joint Question" a message from bbland

sorry - hit the wrong thumb. David Harrison wrote:
yes, if that is what the mfg. requires. Beyond a 30 ft run would most likely result in more potential lateral movement ( expansion & contraction) than is normally accommodated by your typical expansion space. don't forget....the expansion and contraction shows up as the cumulative expansion or contraction of all boards.....apparently beyond 30ft your expansion spaces may not be sufficient. The tee molds create a break to accommodate potential movement.

Topic "Engineered over radiant" a message from Dan Reisen

The 3 layer construction will help with the cupping, but the real concern is checking and splitting, in the event of a spike in temp or drop in RH. It is time consuming, but it may be worthwhile to coat the ends of the face layer with a sealer, to retard moisture flow out of the end grain. It will help to minimize splitting.
I would like to follow up on Avi's question. Does gypcrete have the holding power to keep the flooring in place?

Topic "Sample Contracts" a message from jvino

Topic "Bellawood premium underlayment" a message from Prponds

My husband and I are in the process of installing a click floating engineered wood floor in our master bedroom. This is our first time trying to install flooring and we are having trouble with the underlayment. We have it all rolled out and the seams are taped but it refuses to lay flat. We prepped the subfloor correctly. The wood is 1/2" thick and I'm not sure it will be heavy enough to push down the waves in the underlayment. The guy at lumber liquidators told us not to staple it down, but since it was so wavy we stapled it around the perimeter anyway. Still wavy in the middle. Should we remove the staples and trust that the floor will flatten out the underlayment? Should we try to flatten it by stapling it more?

Topic "Homeowner: water-based vs. oil-based legality, etc" a message from Alexys

I think maybe the flooring contractor added a zero to the price the cost of oil poly.We use two types of finish and the preference is determined by the situation.

Topic "HARTCO Pattern Plus 2000 Engineered Oak floor" a message from S. Kelly

Do you think your method would work with the Gammapar acrylic impregnated stuff? The floor I looked at today was from their "exotic collection." Seemed to have a decent, sandable veneer, maybe the thickness of a nickel. Couldn't tell you what the species is. Date on the box is 5-11-05. Labeled: FPECCOR73aC1LDP - if that helps. This floor has been heavily waxed, so I'm not even considering a buff & coat.
How much you wanting for your secret formula?

Topic "Combined Glued & Floating Floor?" a message from jtraviss09

Does anyone have experience in combining glued & floating hardwood floors? The span in our house exceeds the manufacturer’s installation limit and we would like to install a floor without thresholds/T-moldings. My thought was to glue the center section (the connecting foyer) while floating the floors in the rooms on either side, extending the glued floor to a wide area beyond the thresholds between rooms? Assuming that I can retain a continuous height to keep the floor level, what issues should I expect?
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