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Topic "stained Red oak turned Green" a message from S. Kelly

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Looks, to me, like he pulled up some stain with his first coat of finish. Are they all lines like this picture? Are they, maybe, a consistent 18" apart?
Quite an adventure this is turning out to be, no? For you & your floor guy. Still, not the biggest horror story I've heard about a bleached floor. That prize goes to my brother who put something down that pitted everything metal in the house - appliances, silverware in drawers, pots, pans, registers in the walls. Vivan los litigantes!

Topic "red oak installed next to existing white oak floor" a message from Arkansasandman

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S. Kelly wrote:
Thanks David & Arkyman. Might check it out. I usually sand a patch if there's any doubt what I'll be patching or adding to. Same company that makes the fill, yes?


Yes same company, you put equal drops of solution A and B if the shavings don't change color it's red oak, white oak turns greenish black..... Pretty cool.

Topic "extended handle for flooring nailers..." a message from Nubu

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I always change the paper with the edger upside down with no issues. If eventually dirt goes down the hole and you can't tight the bolt and you don't know what to do...well, you shouldn't say it on a forum smile))
I don't think Dan was promoting anything. He just answered the first post.
Walking the line is not slow. If you have a good feeder, that compressor might not keep up with the stapler.
edited by Nubu on 8/26/2014
edited by Nubu on 8/26/2014

Topic "Who works everyday alone??" a message from joshua crossman

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Jeff- fire your accountant. He apparently can't do math very well.

Topic "Refinishing Pre Finished Floors" a message from Nubu

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On AO, start with 80 then go back to 36, 60 etc

Topic "need planks with saw kerf marks ..... Where, Who??" a message from dbwatson

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I believe that you are looking for kerf marks in the face from the saw mill.

Are you interested in circle sawn or band sawn marks?

Topic "Ruined Sub Floors" a message from dbwatson

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Depends upon how badly damaged the subfloor is. If subfloor is unacceptable it should not have any hardwood installed over it nailed or glued.

Do you have any photos?

Topic "microlam lvl" a message from bno545

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I have seen some floors made with microlam header material riped down to 3/4" strips laied down to show the edge grain. It looks gorgeous. I was wondering if anyone has done this or seen this elseware. I have a few questions about it.
Do I need to route a toung and grove in it. How should I nail it to the sub floor. Does it need releif cuts in the bottom.

Theres not much info out there about it. Any advice or thoghts would be greatly appreciated

Topic "tannin pull problem" a message from Alan from CO

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I have done a space with red oak. ( it it definately is Red oak) . The floor has been stained. There is a large area of tannin pull after using Bona Traffic HD. I need to redo and use a sealer. Anyone used Lock N Seal on ( stained ) red oak and then finished with Bona Traffic HD--if so any problems--
Has anyone used Lock N Seal and had it fail to stop tannin pull--
Bona rep cannot promice that Bona Seal will stop the serious tannin pull, so want to try Lock N Seal--

please excuse my lack of question marks- kepboard is broken

Topic "GCs and HVAC" a message from A_the_P

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So I had a great opportunity to install a floor for a luxury custom home builder...until he told me the floor needed to go down in two weeks. No windows, no doors, no paint, and no HVAC yet. Oh yeah, and it's 90 degrees and 95% rh outside, and homeowners wanted 5" oak planks.

I gave him my spiel, and he gave me his (25 years building homes, never had problems, this is how everybody does it), but it was obvious we weren't getting anywhere. My question is...how do you even work in new construction? GC is absolutely right that everybody's doing it, and it's worked fine for him for 25 years. Every new home builder is going to say the same thing. In the 5% of cases where something goes wrong they can palm it off to the installer.
edited by A_the_P on 8/28/2014

Topic "Bostik MVP/Best VS. Bostik ultra-set single step??" a message from Apex772

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I live in central NC and have a slab foundation. I plan to have 1/2 inch thick engineered hardwood glued down throughout most of my house. Had a bad experience with floating engineered hardwood floors making cracking sounds around baseboards so I won't even consider floating installation at this point. I want the peace of mind that a moisture membrane will provide regardless of what they measure as the moisture content at the time of installation and also like the idea that these products (MVP/Best or the the bostik ultra set one step) provide sound proofing and bridging of current or future cracks NMT 1/8 ". I would expect to save money going with the one step product, but would like to know if there are any disadvantages to using it compared with the two step process (MVP membrane and best glue). I don't get the impression that any of the installers I've talked to have much experience with these products. Most seem to glue directly with a moisture barrier adhesive like bostik best or Bona R580 and no moisture or sound membrane. I just worry they won't have the experience to use these products correctly. Any thoughts? Thanks, I appreciate it!
edited by Apex772 on 8/30/2014
edited by Apex772 on 8/30/2014

Topic "Where to find discontinued Hartco Pattern flooring" a message from Brownd

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In order to do a kitchen remodeling project I need to locate Hartco Pattern Plus 2000 ginger oak. The total amount required is 11 sq. feet. Is there a source for this flooring?

Topic "best injection glue" a message from markymark

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I just had new engineered hardwood installed via glue down to a slab. Wood: virginia millworks 1/2 inch engineered hickory. Glue: Bostik seal n grip. Old glued down hardwood was removed leaving gashes and chips in the slab surface. I had the installer apply a patch/leveling compound over all these.

After the install was complete, later that evening, I took a quick look and noticed small sounds coming from a few places where I stepped. The next day, I still noticed them and then using the knuckle test identified some hollow areas. Two of these spots are high traffic areas so I need them repaired. Each spot is about 1-2 square feet.

I notified the installer and he said to put something heavy on them and if that didn't work he could inject a special glue into then. I put some weights on them but doubt seriously it will fix it.

I feel the installer did a slack job with the leveling compound that should have prevented this issue, so now I'll be second guessing any choice of glue he makes. I want the wood and the slab to become one.

My googling has turned up Dritac, Bostik simple-fix epoxy, 3m epoxy, and Roberts wood booster. Anything else ?

Seeing a lot of positive reviews about Dritac but that's not an epoxy. Does it dry hard ? Seems like epoxy would be superior.

Since I used Bostik adhesive, I'm leaning towards Bostik simple-fix which is an epoxy. Suggestions ?

Topic "Poor distribution of plank color and knots" a message from markymark

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Just had new engineered hickory installed. The planks vary in their lightness, with random knots here and there. The wood is stained medium brown so the variations aren't as drastic, but they do vary.

After the installer was finished and gone, I noticed from the front door point of view (i.e. the first thing you notice when you walk in), going down the middle of the hallway to the back (the planks run from front to back), they had lined up 3 darker planks in a row. And it just looks so wrong to me.

The next day I noticed in the dining room there was this super cluster of about 20 knots on one side of the room and almost no knots on the other.

I mean, overall, the floor looks really good, but these 2 blunders are driving me nuts. A good installer would have made sure to distribute and vary the planks better then this, i imagine.

Is there anything to gain from complaining to the installer about this, or is this one of those things in life you just have to write off ?

Topic "I tossed my carpet, saw beauty in wood, except??" a message from sabrent

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I am looking to finish my carpet covered wood


however there is this gap at the head of one of the boards. what is the best way to resolve my issue?


any suggestions, guides, hints of how to search for my issue so i can resolve would be much appreciated!

Topic "Mahogany Warping" a message from Everchini

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Hi Forum members,

I am looking for your expert advice on a certain issue I've encountered with Mahogany flooring.

I have recently moved out of a beautiful condo with mahogany flooring. The condo is at sub-grade with sliding glass doors in the back, also at sub-grade. While performing the walk through with the landlord, he posed concerns that the floor was warped in a section of the floor in front of the one sliding glass door. There were no concerns of warping anywhere else in the condo.

Prior to the walk through, the landlord showed the condo to a prospective buyer/ renter and questioned why there was a smell in the condo. I told him the combination of me turning off the air conditioning because it was a cool week (high 60's/ low 70's) coupled with a lot of cooking that week was the cause of the smell.

From your experience in your field, would you please advise on whether a week of having the air conditioning off would cause any sort of lifetime damaging warping to occur to the mahogany flooring just in one specific area of the condo? (i.e. warping, to the extent that the affected boards would need to be replaced.

*I'm not sure whether or not there was a moisture test done prior to installation, and whether or not the floor is solid hardwood or engineered hardwood.

Any and all advice is greatly appreciated!

Thank you.

Topic "tracing paper" a message from Selva Lee Tucker

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While at the Forest Products Guild class, I overheard a few people talking about texture finish differences on factor finished planks.
There was a visible difference but the manufacturer was demanding the inspector use a gloss meter. On texture differences?
Had a judge one time ask a mill rep who was demanding the report be tossed because there was no gloss meter used, we simply asked the judge if he could see a difference in the sheen on the photos, he said yes, then, asked the rep and his lawyer if they thought he was stupid, the lawyer did not let one second go by before saying NO, but, the sales rep tried to keep arguing, and nearly got a fine.

So, later I mention to a friend that they should have used tracing paper, taped with blue painters tape, across a few of the planks with the differences, and then use a pencil or chalk rubbing across the seam. Any texture differences in the finish will transfer to the tracing paper.

Seems, an old method we "professional" inspectors have known about for years was not known or taught to wood inspectors.

So, after much urging, I am sharing this, try it, it works on any rough to smooth surfaces, vinyl,ceramic and on and on.

Topic "Refinishing Pre Finished Floors" a message from Woodpro76

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I agree with Nubu, start with 80 to remove the top layer, then normal sequence36-60-100. Works for us.

Topic "Bostik MVP/Best VS. Bostik ultra-set single step??" a message from dharrison

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the Bostik single Stip has no upper limit on moisture ( in the slab) as long as there is not standing water or hydrostatic head present. The single Step is your safest choice.....the others ( Best etc.) only cover your installation up to approx. 15 ( using the CaCl ) terminology....
As in all cases with these adhesives.....the size of the trowel is the single most important thing to key on.....The trowel size determines the spread rate....the proper trowel is listed on the side of the can.....basically you are going to get about 25 sqft per gal coverage to get the full benefit of Bostik Ultra Set Single Step.
edited by dharrison on 9/2/2014

Topic "Canadian White Oak Hardwood Flooring" a message from JIMMIEM

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Are there any Canadian manufacturers that mill white oak solid t&g flooring from Canadian grown white oak?
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