That's a good story and good customer!
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Topic "How much is too much" a message from Arkansasandman
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Topic "Edger discs" a message from Arkansasandman
Curt , what state do you live where you pay your guys 35 bucks an hour....just curious
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Topic "Anybody going to expo" a message from Arkansasandman
I have never been to the expo, but suddenly have a week off and now thinking I would like to go. Anybody know how to get tickets. Is it even worth going to? Thanks
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Topic "Exstreame advanced school" a message from dmhrdwd
Ill know after the convention im told and ill post im not going to be there but will know as the convention is done it sounds good though and if it does not come true ill host it at Goodwin Heart pine in Florida just waiting the good old boys need too sigh off on this
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Topic "One unique place for the Forum" a message from Jean-Marc
Good morning to all of you, I 'm following the Forum on LInkedin, I'm wondering while don't we use only the forum on the hardwoodfloormag.com as a unique place for the forum. Why two places for the forum?
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Topic "Water-based polyurethane over oil-based" a message from Sue
Hi, I have some questions for somebody with a knowledge of hardwood floors finishing. My mom is planning to put water based polyurethane over her old floors that were sanded few years ago. Oil based floor finish was used on them after that sanding. The floors are not in a bad condition. She is not planning to have them sanded this time.
When applying floor finish without sanding is it necessary to put some kind of binder on the floor before putting water based polyurethane over the existing oil based finish?
Could applying this without any sanding be a terrible idea?
Thank you.
When applying floor finish without sanding is it necessary to put some kind of binder on the floor before putting water based polyurethane over the existing oil based finish?
Could applying this without any sanding be a terrible idea?
Thank you.
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Topic "Gaps between newly installed hardwood" a message from jkoehler
Hello,
I hope I'm writing this in the correct spot, as I am new to this forum.
We recently had all new maple hardwood installed throughout our home. After installation, we noticed there was a lot of “stepping". Some parts, the steps are just within a few inches apart from each other. I've read that the end of a board should be at least 6-8" from the previous end joint. Most of our installation is less than 6" apart from end joints.
The salesperson we dealt with has come back by to address our concerns. When we mentioned the stepping, he claims it is only cosmetic and there isn't anything wrong with it. Is this true? We have stepping in many visible spaces in our home (bungalow, 1000 sq ft) -- I have attached pictures of the major ones that are free of furniture or rugs.
We have not paid our final payment, because we have had some issues that we want dealt with (damage to doors, walls, nail holes left unfilled, etc.) -- but now, just as we are ready to pay the balance, I noticed in our hallway there are several gaps in between boards -- some boards have a gap on both sides - and I can see the subfloor. There are a few boards that are very noticeable in the daylight. I think we didn't notice initially because it is more visible in the dark -- when we have our hallway lighting turned on. I took some pictures to show how many of the boards have these gaps. It's disappointing, because it doesn't look nice, plus dirt (and cat litter) is getting stuck in between the boards. You can also see in one photo, how a few boards near a door entrance were filled with wood glue - so I wonder if they noticed those and filled them immediately, and maybe not notice the others?
One thing to note, is that I don’t notice this anywhere else in the house - 3 bedrooms, living room, front hallway, kitchen. There may be a board or two, but nothing like it is in the hallway. I wonder if that is even normal, or we should bring that up as well? It just seems like most boards in the hallway have gaps. So I don’t think humidity has anything to do with it? At least I don’t think? We have a humidifier - and keep it between 40-50% — which is within the hardwood supplier website (Superior Flooring) recommends. We also have maintained this the entire time - through install, and moving forward after it was installed. It was installed around Feb. 6, 2014 and installed in 2 days by a team of two people.
I know that hardwood flooring expands, and shrinks, but wasn't sure if this is something to do with the installation job? Improper nailing.. or? We weren't happy with our installers, and feel they worked as quickly as possible to leave. We used a hardwood flooring company that has a lot of positive reviews, and they claims all of their installers are their employees, so not subbed out.
I just don't know what to do. The company wants their money, but I want some kind of leverage if this is an issue that needs addressed. Should they rip up all the flooring in the hallway and do it again? Pay to have a hardwood inspector come in? But what will that get us? I know the company we purchased this from may want to fill it with wood filler, but I know that is a temporary fix. This is our first home, and we went from 1959 hardwood, to new. It is a big investment, and we want to feel confident that we won't have to pay to get it fixed in the future. We are also a young couple, so I don’t want them to feel they can take advantage of us, and sort of bully our concerns.
Again, I have attached pictures. It is hard to get good pictures of the gaps on both sides, but the ones that were easier to take a picture of you’ll be able to see the subfloor below.
Any help would be very appreciated. Thank you so much.
Jessica
edited by jkoehler on 4/13/2014
edited by jkoehler on 4/13/2014
I hope I'm writing this in the correct spot, as I am new to this forum.
We recently had all new maple hardwood installed throughout our home. After installation, we noticed there was a lot of “stepping". Some parts, the steps are just within a few inches apart from each other. I've read that the end of a board should be at least 6-8" from the previous end joint. Most of our installation is less than 6" apart from end joints.
The salesperson we dealt with has come back by to address our concerns. When we mentioned the stepping, he claims it is only cosmetic and there isn't anything wrong with it. Is this true? We have stepping in many visible spaces in our home (bungalow, 1000 sq ft) -- I have attached pictures of the major ones that are free of furniture or rugs.
We have not paid our final payment, because we have had some issues that we want dealt with (damage to doors, walls, nail holes left unfilled, etc.) -- but now, just as we are ready to pay the balance, I noticed in our hallway there are several gaps in between boards -- some boards have a gap on both sides - and I can see the subfloor. There are a few boards that are very noticeable in the daylight. I think we didn't notice initially because it is more visible in the dark -- when we have our hallway lighting turned on. I took some pictures to show how many of the boards have these gaps. It's disappointing, because it doesn't look nice, plus dirt (and cat litter) is getting stuck in between the boards. You can also see in one photo, how a few boards near a door entrance were filled with wood glue - so I wonder if they noticed those and filled them immediately, and maybe not notice the others?
One thing to note, is that I don’t notice this anywhere else in the house - 3 bedrooms, living room, front hallway, kitchen. There may be a board or two, but nothing like it is in the hallway. I wonder if that is even normal, or we should bring that up as well? It just seems like most boards in the hallway have gaps. So I don’t think humidity has anything to do with it? At least I don’t think? We have a humidifier - and keep it between 40-50% — which is within the hardwood supplier website (Superior Flooring) recommends. We also have maintained this the entire time - through install, and moving forward after it was installed. It was installed around Feb. 6, 2014 and installed in 2 days by a team of two people.
I know that hardwood flooring expands, and shrinks, but wasn't sure if this is something to do with the installation job? Improper nailing.. or? We weren't happy with our installers, and feel they worked as quickly as possible to leave. We used a hardwood flooring company that has a lot of positive reviews, and they claims all of their installers are their employees, so not subbed out.
I just don't know what to do. The company wants their money, but I want some kind of leverage if this is an issue that needs addressed. Should they rip up all the flooring in the hallway and do it again? Pay to have a hardwood inspector come in? But what will that get us? I know the company we purchased this from may want to fill it with wood filler, but I know that is a temporary fix. This is our first home, and we went from 1959 hardwood, to new. It is a big investment, and we want to feel confident that we won't have to pay to get it fixed in the future. We are also a young couple, so I don’t want them to feel they can take advantage of us, and sort of bully our concerns.
Again, I have attached pictures. It is hard to get good pictures of the gaps on both sides, but the ones that were easier to take a picture of you’ll be able to see the subfloor below.
Any help would be very appreciated. Thank you so much.
Jessica
edited by jkoehler on 4/13/2014
edited by jkoehler on 4/13/2014
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Topic "Can you put oil base poly over a bona dts sealer" a message from JimNg
The real question would be: why would you want to try that? Mixing different manufacturer and different based finish is a big NO.
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Topic "Favorite orbital sanders???" a message from JimNg
I can't agree more with these two guys. The festool rotex is just an indispensable tool in my arsenal.
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Topic "Combined Glued & Floating Floor?" a message from
OK. I can take a hint. My only purpose was to determine if a particular technique has been tried or what issues I might expect. Sorry for the inconvenience.
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Topic "3/4x5 Am Walnut -Band-aid fix or Run for the Hills" a message from cginteriors
I recently had a client buy 3/4 x 5 Solid American Walnut from me, but my labor was toooo expensive, they thought. Needless to say, their "handyman" butchered a beautiful floor. 15 gauge finish nails were used for 2/3 of the floor installation. About 10 boards are squeaking at end joints. I know i can eliminate those squeaks but most likely new ones are going to occur. I've talked with a few other trade guys and they said stay away, that i could be liable for the whole floor. Full replacement is whats necessary, but their budget is gone now. Anyone else have any thoughts? Thanks!
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Topic "so much dust! what do you guys do?" a message from Ken B
I just grabbed a flooring saw from skil that hooks up to my shop vac. Its pretty clean for cutting indoors. Just a little pile underneath when I clean up. Its a gimmick tool but I like it for cutting inside when its raining or if there is too many stairs for my liking, lol.
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Topic "Lägler Flip" a message from Bob Q
So where is the best place to buy a flip? My dealer doesn't carry them, also does it come with the different extensions or is that an option?
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Topic "Vapor Barrier/Solid Flooring Questions" a message from tfruiht
Here is my situation. I want to install 3/4" cumaru over a 250sf dry slab on grade. The slab was constructed with the house in 1977 and did not show any moisture with the "plastic sheeting" type test. It reads 4-5% with a prong style moisture meter. Good grading and drainage surrounding the house.
Here is what I have already done: I had it in my head that I needed to glue and ramset down plywood, then nail to that. I applied what I thought was a paint on vapor barrier (3 coats), then glued and ramset 2 layers of 3/8" plywood over that. I needed the 2 layers to level some of the high spots in the floor. Then I installed asphalt laminated paper underlayment (perm <1)over that, and I was going to cleat nail the 3/4" cumaru over the top.
I have had the plywood down for about 1 month, and in the last 2 weeks the moisture levels have gone from 9% to 11% average. I did some research and found out that the paint on vapor barrier I applied was really just a waterproofer (drylok) with a perm rating of about 3.
So my question is, what should I do? I could (a) install the floor and see what happens, (b) sheet the top of the plywood with 6mil poly, or (c) tear it all up and apply a proper vapor barrier, then reinstall. I really don't want to tear it up, as it is glued down pretty good and will be a real bugger. It is my own house, so if the floor misbehaves, I am the only one to blame.
Also, the cumaru (prefinished) is 5" wide and has been acclimating for 3 weeks. It is sitting at about 9% moisture right now.
Flooring Community, what are your thoughts?
edited by tfruiht on 4/18/2014
Here is what I have already done: I had it in my head that I needed to glue and ramset down plywood, then nail to that. I applied what I thought was a paint on vapor barrier (3 coats), then glued and ramset 2 layers of 3/8" plywood over that. I needed the 2 layers to level some of the high spots in the floor. Then I installed asphalt laminated paper underlayment (perm <1)over that, and I was going to cleat nail the 3/4" cumaru over the top.
I have had the plywood down for about 1 month, and in the last 2 weeks the moisture levels have gone from 9% to 11% average. I did some research and found out that the paint on vapor barrier I applied was really just a waterproofer (drylok) with a perm rating of about 3.
So my question is, what should I do? I could (a) install the floor and see what happens, (b) sheet the top of the plywood with 6mil poly, or (c) tear it all up and apply a proper vapor barrier, then reinstall. I really don't want to tear it up, as it is glued down pretty good and will be a real bugger. It is my own house, so if the floor misbehaves, I am the only one to blame.
Also, the cumaru (prefinished) is 5" wide and has been acclimating for 3 weeks. It is sitting at about 9% moisture right now.
Flooring Community, what are your thoughts?
edited by tfruiht on 4/18/2014
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Topic "Is bona water based poly in semi gloss less shiny?" a message from buffswife
Hi
I am in the process of refinishing our hardwood floors. I am looking for a satin finish. We were told that Bona water-based polyurethane in semi-gloss is less shiny than what is called semi-gloss in oil based poly. Therefore, the refinishing company is saying if we are going for a satin look,and we are using using water-based poly, use the semi-gloss. Does this sound correct? Will I obtain a satin look with a semi-gloss water-based poly? Thanks so much!
I am in the process of refinishing our hardwood floors. I am looking for a satin finish. We were told that Bona water-based polyurethane in semi-gloss is less shiny than what is called semi-gloss in oil based poly. Therefore, the refinishing company is saying if we are going for a satin look,and we are using using water-based poly, use the semi-gloss. Does this sound correct? Will I obtain a satin look with a semi-gloss water-based poly? Thanks so much!
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Topic "Popping 3/4 Solid" a message from Jct69z
Hey Guys,
Been awhile and floor is still popping. Had a NWFA certified inspector out to look at the floor and help determine the cause. Didn't really find any smoking gun but the inspector did point out the floor had a pretty bad crown to it. All humidity and moisture readings were correct and have been so for several months now. Looks like the floor may have cupped after install and before finishing. Would that have pulled the staples loose and once the floor equalized cause the popping sound? If so is screwing from the bottom the best option to fix? There are about 25-30 areas that pop on a regular basis on lower humidity days.
I could probably deal with the crowned look but sound has to go!!
Thanks,
Jct
Been awhile and floor is still popping. Had a NWFA certified inspector out to look at the floor and help determine the cause. Didn't really find any smoking gun but the inspector did point out the floor had a pretty bad crown to it. All humidity and moisture readings were correct and have been so for several months now. Looks like the floor may have cupped after install and before finishing. Would that have pulled the staples loose and once the floor equalized cause the popping sound? If so is screwing from the bottom the best option to fix? There are about 25-30 areas that pop on a regular basis on lower humidity days.
I could probably deal with the crowned look but sound has to go!!
Thanks,
Jct
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Topic "plywood subfloor over concrete" a message from Ezmaster88
I am installing laminate floor over plywood subfloor . plywood sub will be on concrete. in Florida moisture is always a concern.
I will use a barrier between concrete and plywood . it seems like a bad idea to shoot holes in barrier to anchor plywood. How do I proceed ? Do I glue? Can subfloor be "floating" ? and using plywood to bring up level of final laminate to equal tile in hallways.
I will use a barrier between concrete and plywood . it seems like a bad idea to shoot holes in barrier to anchor plywood. How do I proceed ? Do I glue? Can subfloor be "floating" ? and using plywood to bring up level of final laminate to equal tile in hallways.
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Topic "Exstreame advanced school" a message from dmhrdwd
Dave ill know when everyone gets back from the convention
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Topic "Anybody going to expo" a message from Arkansasandman
I really enjoyed the expo, whole bunch of guys there that know a lot more than me for sure, I've been doing wood for 18 years and I'm definitely going to start going to some more educational certification classes.
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Topic "Refinishing American Cherry Floor" a message from wrp2525
I'm a homeowner new to this site, but very impressed with the knowledge and experience of everyone - I'm hoping someone can give me good advice.
I have a home with american cherry wood floors. They looked great when we move in 7 years ago, but with two dogs the floors are now heavily scratched. I expect we'll need them sanded and would like some advice on the best finish to use. My wife and I like the look of hard wax oil finishes, but we're not sure how durable they would be with the dogs, especially with such a soft wood. Or should we go with a durable polyurethane? We'd like something that will keep looking good and last with minimal maintenance.
Thanks in advance for your help and advice!
-Bill
I have a home with american cherry wood floors. They looked great when we move in 7 years ago, but with two dogs the floors are now heavily scratched. I expect we'll need them sanded and would like some advice on the best finish to use. My wife and I like the look of hard wax oil finishes, but we're not sure how durable they would be with the dogs, especially with such a soft wood. Or should we go with a durable polyurethane? We'd like something that will keep looking good and last with minimal maintenance.
Thanks in advance for your help and advice!
-Bill
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