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Topic "bona mega satin finish opinions please" a message from buffswife

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I was told that the satin finish Bona Mega water-based poly is less shiny than when you use an oil based poly called "satin". If I would like a satin look in Bona Mega (specifically Bona Mega Clear HD) should I use their semi finish instead or stick with their satin finish?
Thanks

Topic "Unbelievable pay" a message from hadleycrg

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what is the going rate for installing prefinished hwd in a new construction application on wood subfloor with installer supplying nails/cleats/or staples.

Topic "Stapling or glueing" a message from conklinbros

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Hi buddy,


Under your conditions stated, I see no reason to glue your floor down. A typical nail down will be fine. I would cover the ground below with a vapor barrier; make sure you have good air flow under the house. Acclimate your wood and have proper humidification in your home.

Topic "Grain Discoloration" a message from tdmac

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AAM, is that a prefinished urethane floor. It looks like a wire brushed floor from the 70's with a wax finish. Then some kind of fine white powder has worked into the open grain.
If it is a Urethane manufacturer's prefinished product then that is unusual. I know a waxed finished floor might do that with a Bona cleaner. You are using the Bona Cleaner, & NOT a polish?
Will that white ( looks like baking flour) scrub out with a toothbrush with just water?
I really do not think that is wear n tear! Nor is it from UV light. Why do you think it is worn? It looks like the grain wasn't factory finished with enough urethane..ie a wire brushed textured finish. Is it rough feeling? The pix were ok but not large and contrasty. Well my 2 cents

Topic "so much dust! what do you guys do?" a message from john.fellows

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Thanks fellaows. I could be working for the wrong guys. They don't care about dust. Nice tools I'll look into them

Topic "Bone dry concrete sealer" a message from john.fellows

Topic "Document your Wood Installation at FloorDocs.com" a message from Cruiser

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New online tool offering start-to-finish documentation of flooring installation, cleaning, and concrete moisture testing


  • Cell phone pictures taken on FloorDocs.com are Location, Date and Time Stamped to produce a Certified Job Report


  • Job Reports provide you with a permanent job record and irrefutable evidence in the evident of unwarranted claims or lawsuits


  • Job Reports are updated as pictures are taken, and can be saved, printed or emailed to anyone you wish


  • There is no limit to the number of pictures that can be taken before, during or after each job


  • You may authorize users to monitor jobs in progress from their mobile device or computer


  • FloorDocs protects Flooring Installers, Cleaners, Estimators and Technicians by documenting every step of the Job


  • FloorDocs promotes Professional Work Ethics for Installers and Service Technicians, and peace of mind for business owners


Who Uses FloorDocs?
Flooring Retailers
Workrooms
Independent Installers
Estimators
Concrete Moisture Testing Technicians
Carpet & Flooring Cleaners

Try FloorDocs Now: 20 Jobs only $20.00

Topic "Document Installation Sand & Finish at FloorDocs.c" a message from Cruiser

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New online tool offering start-to-finish documentation of flooring installation, cleaning, and concrete moisture testing


  • Cell phone pictures taken on FloorDocs.com are Location, Date and Time Stamped to produce a Certified Job Report


  • Job Reports provide you with a permanent job record and irrefutable evidence in the evident of unwarranted claims or lawsuits


  • Job Reports are updated as pictures are taken, and can be saved, printed or emailed to anyone you wish


  • There is no limit to the number of pictures that can be taken before, during or after each job


  • You may authorize users to monitor jobs in progress from their mobile device or computer


  • FloorDocs protects Flooring Installers, Cleaners, Estimators and Technicians by documenting every step of the Job


  • FloorDocs promotes Professional Work Ethics for Installers and Service Technicians, and peace of mind for business owners


Who Uses FloorDocs?
Flooring Retailers
Workrooms
Independent Installers
Estimators
Concrete Moisture Testing Technicians
Carpet & Flooring Cleaners

Try FloorDocs Now: 20 Jobs only $20.00

Topic "Lägler Flip" a message from JLVivash

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Approx how much are you paying for a Lagler Flip?

Topic "Using two wood floors to define kit & living room" a message from jzis

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I have a floor through condo where there is no barrier (wall) between the living room and kitchen/entrance. Would it be suitable / aesthetically pleasing to have a wood floor of say oak in the living room, and a reclaimed oak at a 45 degree angle to define the kitchen area?

Topic "Gaps between newly installed hardwood" a message from jkoehler

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Hi again!

No updates as of yet. The company seems very pushy to get everything settled, but after speaking with my Husband, he doesn't want them coming back until he's home (middle/end of May), and also wants our contractor to be here (the one who did the rest of our renovations - but not anything with hardwood.) I am looking into getting an official hardwood inspection. All the people I've spoken to briefly wanted to make sure they didn't know or have any contacts with the company where we had the issue. That felt nice - especially after the hardwood company said they know some people who can give us an inspection. I don't think the inspector should be working for the company who is trying to say they're not at fault.

One guy I am speaking to is letting me send pictures and do some things upfront - before shelling out money for an official inspection. I really appreciate that. Has anyone on here had an official hardwood inspection? Or maybe certified as an inspector?

The inspector asked me to measure the boards. I'm not sure if any of you could help me out with this -- but if I measure a board that has gaps on both sides, and one without - should they be the same? They are... as much as I can tell?... If the hardwood is "shrinking" due to humidity -- wouldn't the boards be different widths? I assume this, but I could be wrong as well which is why I am back here again.

Thanks again for all of your help. I just wish we could get this dealt with and be able to enjoy our home again!

Topic "X-98 or Traffic on clear Hickory" a message from skyjumper

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doing a clear hickory floor.

contractor wants to do 3 coats of Pallman X-96 with no sealer.

I'd prefer a 2 part catalyzed finish.

so what's better - X-98 or Traffic. we have active kids.

also -- is it true that when doing clear you don't need a sealer you just put down the finish on bare wood. that's your "sealer" coat. then 2 finish coats of the same? if so, could he use x-96 as the "sealer" and 2 coats x-98 for better durability?

Topic "Delivery of flooring" a message from thecoopers

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We are close to taking delivery of 1200 sq.ft. of white oak 5" flooring. it will be in 5,6 and 7 foot lengths. The flooring will be laid in four rooms and a hallway.

My question is about the best way to have it placed in the house off the delivery truck. I know it needs acclimation. My hope is to get close to a standard of 2% between the flooring and subfloor. We plan to use Formular B underlayment. This could take weeks as there is no central heat/air because we are using wood heat and a attic fan. (the house is in the mountains of TN) I have installed a large dehumidifirer in the crawlspace with ducting in the walls opening air flow between the crawlspace and the house (one story).

Should I put down the Formular B and spread it all over the floors for acclimation or stack it stickered or just stack it? We need to have a way to work in the house on other aspects other than the floor during the acclimation period.

I would appreciate direction. Thank you.

Topic "Anybody going to expo" a message from johannes

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Jason,

Believe Micheal McDermot from the Chicago area won the Trio.

Johannes

Topic "Is bona water based poly in semi gloss less shiny?" a message from ericjohnson

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Today Satin finish is the most stylish and popular sheen to make your floor look more shiny and glossy.It give the room both a classic and contemporary feel.

Topic "White Line Syndrome" a message from lgwozdz

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Recently had a Brazilian cherry floor installed. Within a week it developed several "white lines" that eventually began cracking. I contacted my contractor. The lines are now starting to peel. He's currently trying to find a solution with the poly manufacturer? Is it a problem with the poly or the process? I will be the consumer to accept seasonal gapping and white lines in dark wood, but I cannot accept peeling poly that will eventually damage my floor. What is the proper fix? Wanted to attach a photo but couldn't figure it out. Looks just like the first attachment in this topic.

Topic "Unbelievable pay" a message from A_the_P

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My area must be tough. The big-name, "sky-high" company here is getting $2.75 to refinish...that's stain, three coats of Traffic, and base shoe installed. I charge $2 when things are slow, $2.50 when I'm busy, and $2.85ish for the old money historical districts. About $8 for a standard oak install and finish, and $1/lf for shoe molding.

Topic "Wood Floor in the wine cellar" a message from mqscmc

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Hello All.

I will have a project coming up which includes installing hardwood floors in the wine cellar. I have never had to install a wood floor in the wine cellar before. Any special attention should be taken? Not sure about what type of floors will be used yet however the house will receive santos mahogany and owner may want the same type of wood in there. Should that be an engineered? Any particular type of finish? Subfloor will be plywood. Any recommendation and suggestions is very appreciate. Thanks.

Topic "Linseed oil vs. poly finish" a message from justinb0205

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About to refinish my hardwoods. They are Red Oak and I want to go with a darker stain. I was reading up on different finishes and I didn't know if it was better to go with a linseed oil finish or to go with a poly. This is my first floor that im refinishing. Ive worked with poly before on other wood projects. I just didn't know if one was better to go with. From what I read they said that a poly finished floor will eventually need to be refinished but the oiled floor will just need to be re-oiled. Any information will be appreciated. Thank you!!
edited by justinb0205 on 5/2/2014

Topic "re coating?? Bona maintenance" a message from dallasmodernhomeguy

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I'd like to first thank everyone on this forum (this thread specifically) for their contributions about using Bona products. My wife and I purchased a mid-century modern home last year and after some remodeling and lots of dust, I used Bona Floor Polish (satin) to revive the look of our dark, hard-wood floor. It worked like a charm. We were amazed at the results. Last week, about 7 months after first applying the floor polish I applied it again. Same prep, same mop, same bottle. However, this time there was a slight white cast to the appearance. I was a little freaked out to say the least. Maybe the applicator was dirty? Nope. The product went bad? Nope. Did I do something wrong? After searching the internet I found this thread. My heart sunk. I started reading things like "DIY doomed, pro's called in to re-sand floor. Oh, no," I thought. After reading and re-reading many of these posts I came to the conclusion (and after carefully reading the spec sheet of Bona Polish Remover) that using the polish remover would drive me to drink. So I opted for a rather passive remedy. After thinking long and hard about my 11th grade Chemistry class and what I could vaguely remember about chemicals and their derivitaves like ethanol, alcohol, and benzene, it occurred to me perhaps friction alone might work. So this morning I found a rental place (not Home Depot) and rented a 17" heavy duty sander/polisher. I didn't use any removers or harsh abrasives to prep. In fact, all I did was vacuum using our Dyson, and lightly mop (water only) and follow around with a towel, wiping away any moisture, making sure the floor was VERY dry. Then I started using the white polishing pad with no real results. So I tried the red 3M pad and that did the trick. I made one pass on the entire floor and then flipped the red pad and did another pass. Then I made a pass on the high traffic areas with the white pad. I would say 95% of the white film is gone, which is all I could have asked for considering the alternatives (if I had used ANY other product) after using the polish. From here on out I won't be using the Bona Polish. Just a drop or two of dishwashing soap every month or so to clean. Lesson learned. And for only $88 (rental and two pads) I'd say I got off easy. It could have been a mess if I hadn't found this forum. Thanks again to all of you!
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