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Topic "Bad glue" a message from janggeungulk


Topic "Need moisture!!" a message from Arkansasandman

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I'm doing a house that has 3 floors 3rd floor has wood and I sanded it already 2nd floor had wood and I added about 400 foot, wood is 2.25 inch red oak, i received it last week at 7,8,9 percent moisture, subfloor was between 8 and 10% so I went ahead and layed the 2nd floor....bottom floor which wood subfloor sits above ground and has plastic over dirt underneath,the subfloor is two layers of plywood and moisture was between 12 and 14% I prepped and layed 15 lb felt paper then racked floor and let sit for one week now and I just checked wood moisture and it is still about 8%, I want it to be 11 and 12 befor I nail it.....what's the best way to get some moisture in this wood in a reasonable amount of time?

Topic "Contract forms and letters" a message from sc_hardwood_guy

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Has any one out there used the Dewalt Contractor Forms and Letters? or does any one have a good sample of a flooring bid/contract i could check out?

Topic "Anybody going to expo" a message from Adam Williams

Topic "Lägler Flip" a message from joshua crossman

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I like the Flip. The corner attachment has saved me a lot of time in corner work, not much left to scrap after you hit it with that.
Easy for a new guy to get the hang of edging as it is not too aggressive. Excellent dust pick up.

Topic "DOUGLAS FIR FLOORING INSTALLATION" a message from amycastelano

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Is Douglas Fir an appropriate species for a wood floor in an office space? Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Topic "Hardwood floor in a summer home" a message from samyeds

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Can hardwood floors be used in a summer home that is unoccupied and unheated (below zero temps probable) in the winter? Would a very hard bamboo floor that is a floating installation work?

Topic "REGARDING TELLING THE CLIENT TOO MUCH" a message from S. Kelly

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Hey db,
Of course you know that if you had installed the floor without doing your due diligence & it buckled, he'd have taken you to the Registrar.
It's been said here many times but bears repeating, some of the best jobs are the ones you don't get.

Topic "Hartco Pattern Plus Hardwood floor" a message from sram

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sram wrote:
I read your suggestions on how to renew a Hartco wood floor. My floor is 24 years old and am not sure if it's a pattern plus 2000 or 5000. Am I correct in assuming a professional sanding machine will not work for sanding this floor? We would like to do the refinishing ourselves and have 280 sqr ft of hardwood. It would be quite a job to sand it with a belt sander.

Topic "Oils/ Hardwax oils" a message from lstroyan

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Hello again,

We are finally getting to the point of finishing our floors. We have 5" rift-cut oak installed and it's gorgeous in this eco-contemporary setting. Instead of having the contractor finish the floor, I'm thinking of going with a floor refinisher that has had experience with HWO, because I found one locally.

The installer has used Rubio but switched over to Loba Impact Oil. However, he indicated (if I understood him correctly), that the Loba was a one-coat application which didn't sound right to me. He says he thinks the Loba has less issues with the color wearing than the Rubio, in his experience, because the pigment isn't floating in the oil.

Is Loba a true HWO and are there any disadvantages? (Other than a small set of unsubtle colors, unfortunately). What I did like about the Loba is that it has more of a satin sheen, less flat than Rubio. (I'm not going for shiny)

My decision had been to go either Ciranova or Rubio with a Ciranova transparent 2nd coat (based on what color we choose; favorite so far is Ciranova grey but have ordered more Rubio samples too). He is willing to use Ciranova or Rubio as well, but another factor is in the mix. I have started reacting strongly to VOCs in even small amounts. However, I do not need to be in the house for quite a while after the HWO is applied, and is my understanding correct that the small amount of VOCs in Ciranova will dissipate fairly quickly? Thanks again for any comments or info.

Topic "Wave..." a message from Mdblb05

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I am a flooring installer/finisher. Learned installation from 2nd generation father inlaw sanding I've had to figure out on my own past the basics. I have gone to I nwfa schools as well as some others. For the first few years I had no wave or didn't notice it. As I've gotten better and more particular it seems to be around more and more. Thought it was the machine (newer 10" bona belt) so I had it serviced twice with same results. Bought a brand new Clarke floor crafter same results. Have a guy help me sometimes with 20 yrs experience and he has same issue withy machine or his though it seems to a lesser extent sometimes. I don't have wave on every floor but to some degree on most. It is by far worse on newer red oak floors especially wider boards. Old growth floors and white oak sometimes look like a table top. I cut most jobs 36 50 80 hardplate natural floors and screen 100 grit all floors. Btw I learned bonas hardplate which is 2 maroon pads on a hard plastic plate with double sides disc (not sure of this even counts as hard playing). If I notice chatter which has stopped since I switched from bona belts to Norton I wood hard plate and of needed water pop. My stain is always even my finish is always clean but I cannot get rid of wave. I used to think it was my machine or me, now I feel like it's the soft grain dishing out and transferring a wave across the floor. It always seems like the wave originates around a board with wide rays of soft grain. I came to this conclusion after seeing it lessen on white oak and go away on hickory or pine. I cut first cut or two at a slight angle. I have tried going slower on first cut and faster as well as slow on final cut. I have tried lowering drum pressure on final cut and alternating drum pressure between cuts. I have tried moving bag to top of sander and one side or the other. I have emptied bag early and left some weight in it. Please help you old salty dogs. Lol. Surely someone out there actually has had this issue and corrected it once and for all. Or am I doomed to a life of hardplating all my floors and water popping every stain job past golden oak? Btw never had a complaint but I lose sleep on every one thinking this will be my first resand or my first job I have to eat.
Thanks so much for reading my 1000 word essay on why floors drive me nuts.
Mike

Topic "How to clean an oiled walnut floor" a message from MacD

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I have a customer that installed a Homerwood oiled soft scraped Walnut floor , then there was a lot of work still being done and a lot of wood dust and gyprock dust was grounded into the grain of the flooring . Does anuone have any suggestions how to clean the floor ?
The oil soap and refinisher from Woca didn't work .

Topic "prefinished flooring damaged by contractor install" a message from stefanko

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We had pre-finished hardwood floors installed recently. There are a lot of dents, gaps, and cracks. For example,






Most importantly, around some of the dents the contractor sanded and applied polyurethane to a large area around the dent (mind you this was pre-finished flooring). They did this to a rather large area (circled in the picture; the white pieces mark some of the dents/gaps/cracks):




The areas with polyurethane are smudgy/sticky/rough with unpleasant texture:



The planks physically damaged and those damaged by sanding and polyurethane need to be replaced (can you confirm this?). Can one repair this or is full replacement necessary? Any advice on how to handle this nightmare would be appreciated.


There are more (full resolution) photos of the damage at: www.cs.rochester.edu/~stefanko/FLOORNEW/
edited by stefanko on 5/12/2014

Topic "Lägler Flip" a message from AlexWoods

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I have one and i paid aprox 1700$, but it's worth it

Topic "Center baseline correct for this project..??" a message from davenay67

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I am about to undertake the project to start laying hardwood floors in the first floor of our home. I am planning to undertake the Living Room, Dining Room and Office first. i will tackle the hallway, Kitchen and Dinette at a later date.




Technically the longest run is 23', which is the length from the front of the living room wall to the back of the dining room wall. This is for a width of 5' which is the measurement between the walls separating these 2 rooms. I have read that 20' is about as much as you ideally want in a single run, and because IL can get fairly humid I have decided that starting in the center of these 3 rooms with a center baseline measurement and using a spline is probably my best course of action.

My first question is whether the experts would agree with this approach?

Secondly, because there may be a few months gap between these separate 2 projects I am thinking to 'cap' the doorways between the living room and the hallway with a plank laid in the threshold at 90 degrees to the flooring direction. I actually like this look, as well as creating a natural break. I know this isn't to everyone's taste, but is there a technical reason I should not do this? A big concern of mine is getting exact alignment of the planks at the dining room and kitchen if I do not use the 90 degree board in the threshold, as the island created by the closet, WC and laundry room is quite big.

Thirdly, the hallway is not very long and neither is the kitchen, so it is OK to lay these starting from the front of the house and going to the back of the house, or should I replicate the same split spline method used int he first 3 rooms?

Thanks for any help or input..!!
edited by davenay67 on 5/13/2014
edited by davenay67 on 5/13/2014

Topic "will this stain go away with refinishing?" a message from damagedfloor

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Painting contractors left a bag of trash on bare floor and created this crazy pattern on my hardwoods (original floors in a 1924 house) with no explanation of how it happened. I had a flooring contractor scheduled for my kitchen so I had him advise me. He said the only thing he had ever seen do this was a dollar store cleaner. I had no time to refinish floors prior to renter move in but he said he could make it look better which he did and the painters are paying for that. My question is "will this go away when I refinish the floors at the next tenant move?" or should I prepare for additional costs to replace the wood in that area? I need to know now so I can settle with the painters. Timely advice will be greatly appreciated.

Topic "White lines in finish and loose grooves?" a message from smk2u71

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Hi I am a homeowner in Central NJ and had our red oak floors installed in Jan 2013 with a Jacobean finish. We had the white lines.. bad! My friend (who did the floors) came back in July 2013 and redid the downstairs for me in a matte finish... and it is awful too... no white lines but scratches beyond easy. I do not blame my friend but do not want to ruin our friendship. My floors look like they are 20 years old already and my housekeeper says she has never seen worse floors.. He said the first time he used oil based and the second time water based. I am getting ready to hire someone else to redo the entire house and we are going to change the color to natural or pickled oak to try and minimize the potential of being able to see any imperfections so visibly. I am so gun shy and afraid at this point! Any advice would be much appreciated. The new guy has given me the choice of Bona Mega Clear HD and Absco (not sure which one). Please help me... my husband thinks I am crazy, but I can't even look at my brand new floors without feeling sick abut them... I want them done right this time to where I don't have to think about it again for a very ong time. (PS... we have 2 kids 5&7 who are not that rough on the floors and 2 indoor/outdoor cats and a 5.5 lb Chihuahua and a 12 lb. Yorkie).
edited by smk2u71 on 5/14/2014

Topic "European way!" a message from AlexWoods

Topic "110v belt sanders..." a message from sc_hardwood_guy

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Any one out there use a 110 belt or drum sander?

Topic "Material cost for job" a message from petesfloors

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I am making a bid on a large floor job. The materials cost more than the labor.
My question is the materials are non-refundable and non-returnable since it is
a custom order. Would you require a deposit for the cost of materials before ordering?
Or would you front the money and get a check when the flooring is delivered?
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