Yeah, but Tucker the only problem is they sell Bona Floor Polish at Home Depot and have no warning about what happens once you apply a second coat. It clearly states on the bottle to use every 2-3 months. To sell a product as a "benign" polish at a ubiquitous consumer outlet like Home Depot insinuates there will not be some post removal process necessary like you described. "Charge accordingly" and "Labor intensive" sounds expensive. Bona would be better served NOT selling this product at a place like Home Depot, but make it available ONLY to professionals. I felt incredibly betrayed, almost violated after reading all of these posts, including yours after the fact, that this is what it takes to remove this product. It's like going to a Walgreens, buying some over the counter drug, only to realize I may need surgery to undo it's harmful effects to a vital organ. It just doesn't make any sense.
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Topic "re coating?? Bona maintenance" a message from dallasmodernhomeguy
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Topic "Stapling or glueing" a message from thecoopers
I am using 1 3/4" cleats. For white oak, was wondering if 16 or 18 gauge would be the best for holding and splitting issues.
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Topic "Photoshoot or Digitalizing Wood Flooring Products" a message from manikakk
Hi! I am looking for specialized agency who can do the digitization of our wood flooring products. These are needed to be used in catalogue production and creating lifestyle shots of the products.
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Topic "Staining maple" a message from LesFlo
Does the color come out even?
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Topic "Question" a message from LesFlo
Just fyi
No troubles here.
You were both right
Thank You btw
No troubles here.
You were both right
Thank You btw
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Topic "Refinishing Hartco Pattern Plus floors" a message from hollywould459
I have Hartco Pattern Plus wood floors in my kitchen. Installed 1989. From what I have now researched, they are worth refinishing. I want to have them refinished and then install hardwoods to match as best I can in the rest of the house. I am in Houston, Texas and need to find someone to do the job. Would appreciate any feedback.
Thanks Holly
Thanks Holly
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Topic "Old adhesive left on concrete slab" a message from 1stgec
Would really appreciate if someone could look at this picture and tell me if they can tell what the inspector was looking at when he pulled up this section of engineered hardwood (3" Bruce E531) to find out if old glue was not removed completely. I am no expert, but I think my mother is being taken advantage of by the flooring co., the insurance co. Hired an inspector, after we told them that we saw the installers starting to lay floor in dining room over what looked like old glue and uneven surface, we asked them right then that we noticed the night before after they left the first day that there was a smooth concrete surface in the half-bath but everywhere else it looked like old glue and not a smooth concrete surface. The installer replied that he would guarantee that everything was ok and that as long as everything is level there shouldn't be a problem. My mother and I are no experts, but after looking through proper prep from the Bruce hardwood instructions, it seemed like we had installers who started out doing the right thing (removing glue completely down to smooth slab in half-bath, but then it was too hard, so they stopped removing it everywhere else) The installer is now saying that he did remove all old adhesive, and the owner of flooring co. Is backing installer not our observations (witnessing him laying floor over old glue in dining room) Farmers Ins. Co hired inspector and he took up a portion of floor and the picture attached is the section he took up, it has been a week now since he inspected and my mom is losing sleep every night over this, the inspector cannot say anything to my mom as he was hired by the Ins. Co. Please could someone tell me if the inspector saw two different glues, or evidence that it was an improper floor prep on concrete slab. Any help would be much appreciated as my mother is becoming ill over this.
edited by 1stgec on 5/31/2014
edited by 1stgec on 5/31/2014
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Topic "Andoriba" a message from May
I scraped a prefinished andoriba floor and finished with three coats natural oil based polyurethane, it`s first floor level Dining, Family & Hallway, you could see some humps (very little waviness) customer is complaining, what can I do to fix it now and to prevent it happening in the future (they have high heads which makes it more visible)
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Topic "engineered hardwood wide plank (7 1/2") - staple" a message from ullsign
Hello everyone,
I have a engineered hardwood wide plank (7 1/2) installation in progress. I have installed about 200 - 300 SqFt from aprox 2000 SqFt, with 1 1/2" 18 G narrow crown staples over 5/8" plywood. Soon (h's) the floor start crackling and popping as i walk over. The nail schedule it's ok between 3 - 5". The sub-floor is stable with very minor movement (its a wood structure, new home). I have tried in a separate section with couple (6 long plank) of boards nailed down using 1 3/4" 18 g cleats and I having same crackling popping issue. Humidity in the floor, air are ok (47% @ 22C air), hardwood left for 72h acclimatization. We had the rep on the site and they conclusion for the crackling and popping is the very minor movement of sub-floor (can't be noticeable or anyway it's less then 1-2 mm over 3') and inproperer nailing down.
Contractor want us to try using sub floor spot glue under the hardwood on every 3 - 4 plank. Using spot glue under hardwood is that ok? As i know for sure will void the warranty. Any help on this truly appreciate. I can provide more technical info from installation upon requested.
Thanks
edited by ullsign on 5/30/2014
I have a engineered hardwood wide plank (7 1/2) installation in progress. I have installed about 200 - 300 SqFt from aprox 2000 SqFt, with 1 1/2" 18 G narrow crown staples over 5/8" plywood. Soon (h's) the floor start crackling and popping as i walk over. The nail schedule it's ok between 3 - 5". The sub-floor is stable with very minor movement (its a wood structure, new home). I have tried in a separate section with couple (6 long plank) of boards nailed down using 1 3/4" 18 g cleats and I having same crackling popping issue. Humidity in the floor, air are ok (47% @ 22C air), hardwood left for 72h acclimatization. We had the rep on the site and they conclusion for the crackling and popping is the very minor movement of sub-floor (can't be noticeable or anyway it's less then 1-2 mm over 3') and inproperer nailing down.
Contractor want us to try using sub floor spot glue under the hardwood on every 3 - 4 plank. Using spot glue under hardwood is that ok? As i know for sure will void the warranty. Any help on this truly appreciate. I can provide more technical info from installation upon requested.
Thanks
edited by ullsign on 5/30/2014
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Topic "Angry Contractor" a message from Columbia River Hardwood Floors
Update.... Floor Failed! LOL!!! I love being right!
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Topic "Bleaching top-nailed floors" a message from petesfloors
Is there a wood patch that doesn't foam when bleaching?
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Topic "Hardwood Floors" a message from garryfury
Thanks for your offer.
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Topic "White Line Syndrome" a message from OBD
I installed a 3/4" x 5" white oak all quarter sawn plank floor in an existing home a few years ago that had this problem. We stained the floor with a quick dry stain, sealed it the following day with a quick dry oil based sealer, then screen sanded and recoated with BONA Traffic. I was doing all our jobs with this same method for 5 years, and not had this problem. I was surprised to have problems because of the dimensional stability of the quarter sawn flooring.
So what we did was switch from the oil based sealer to Bona Amber Seal, and we've not had a problem since. Apparently the oil base sealer was not elastic enough to allow for the movement, thus causing the white lines.
So what we did was switch from the oil based sealer to Bona Amber Seal, and we've not had a problem since. Apparently the oil base sealer was not elastic enough to allow for the movement, thus causing the white lines.
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Topic "Wind shake boards" a message from OBD
After finishing an existing floor there are 3 wind shake boards. Do I have to absorb the cost to replace, spot sand and finish these? What's the NWFA's stance on this, am I responsible? We tried just "touching" them up, but you can still tell these boards aren't perfect like the rest of the floor.
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Topic "Old adhesive not removed from concrete slab" a message from grooving
There's definitely two different adhesives. Most all manufacturers of wood and adhesive ( you can check their website for requirements) require all old adhesives, sealers, paint etc be removed completely down to the substrate and even mechanical removal ie grinding, shotblasting the surface to a csp 2-3 prior to installation.
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Topic "Moisture Barrier" a message from FirstTimer
This is my maiden voyage into installing laminate flooring. Everything I have read and watched recommends putting down the moisture barrier underneath the flooring, but I can not find anything that addresses whether it is recommended or needed if you have a moisture barrier underneath your home. What we have under our home covers a good portion of the area, and I have heard from several friends that putting another down under the flooring will trap whatever moisture there is. Our subfloor is going to be wood. Of course everywhere that deals in selling the materials says yes b/c they want to add to my bill, so I am looking for some insight from some non-partisan individuals.
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Topic "How to wax?" a message from Arkansasandman
I have a customer I've done several houses for, now they have one that has been waxed and wants it waxed and polished..... Can anyone tell me best wax to use and what kind of pads to polish with on buffer. Thanks
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Topic "extended handle for flooring nailers..." a message from sc_hardwood_guy
Has any one out there tried swopping out there standard nailer handle with an extended one? if so which brand/model? i know there's a guy that makes an after market on for the Bostitch nailer with an a longer mallet handle as well. Powernail makes and xl handle and Primatech makes a flip up extended handle. But i still haven't seen any real reviews on all three...
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Topic "Share:How to prevent wood floor from deforming" a message from GuoSenTeak
Teak wood flooring deforming is affecting the appearance and use of the house seriously. And what is make difficult forthe owners to accept it. The main cause of deforming are the following :
( 1 )The surface layer of wood moisture content is higher or lower .The wood in the dry air will lose moisture and shrink when it higher,or warpage occurs after the wooden flooring absorbs moisture from the air when it lower.
( 2 ) The fine stone concrete or thermal insulation materials between the wood joists filling are not dried, so the flooring absorbs moisture and rising drum deformation.
( 3 ) Having no installing moisture barrier layer or staying vents around the flooring left vent ,and internal moisture cannot be discharged after laying flooring
( 4 ) Gross floor have no gap or few gap,it absorbs moisture and becoming expanded, so that the surface deformed.
In order to prevent the teak wood floor surface from deforming,wooden flooring construction should do the following strictly:
( 1 ) Controlling the moisture content of teakwood flooring should not exceed 12% .
( 2 ) The fine stone concrete or the rmalinsulation materials between the wood joists filling need to dry before laying teakwood flooring .
( 3 ) Setting vent holes reasonable. Wood joists should be communicated hole slot , connected with teak wood floor surface vent, and make sure the vent should be kept clear to facilitate aircir culation.
( 4 ) The gap between gross floor should be properly opened , usually 2 ~ 5mm.The surface of flooring should be planed,the adjacent seams should be staggered and it must away from the wall about 10 ~ 15mm.
( 5 ) Board should leave 10mm gap between the flooring surface and wall,and complete the installation by skirting board.
( 1 )The surface layer of wood moisture content is higher or lower .The wood in the dry air will lose moisture and shrink when it higher,or warpage occurs after the wooden flooring absorbs moisture from the air when it lower.
( 2 ) The fine stone concrete or thermal insulation materials between the wood joists filling are not dried, so the flooring absorbs moisture and rising drum deformation.
( 3 ) Having no installing moisture barrier layer or staying vents around the flooring left vent ,and internal moisture cannot be discharged after laying flooring
( 4 ) Gross floor have no gap or few gap,it absorbs moisture and becoming expanded, so that the surface deformed.
In order to prevent the teak wood floor surface from deforming,wooden flooring construction should do the following strictly:
( 1 ) Controlling the moisture content of teakwood flooring should not exceed 12% .
( 2 ) The fine stone concrete or the rmalinsulation materials between the wood joists filling need to dry before laying teakwood flooring .
( 3 ) Setting vent holes reasonable. Wood joists should be communicated hole slot , connected with teak wood floor surface vent, and make sure the vent should be kept clear to facilitate aircir culation.
( 4 ) The gap between gross floor should be properly opened , usually 2 ~ 5mm.The surface of flooring should be planed,the adjacent seams should be staggered and it must away from the wall about 10 ~ 15mm.
( 5 ) Board should leave 10mm gap between the flooring surface and wall,and complete the installation by skirting board.
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Topic "Product Sourcing" a message from roblaw5
TDMAC wrote:
Joshua, Fun FYI ... I have seen that on a few jobs , but the worst out here on the West Coast is the 3/8"x 2" & 3/8" x 1-1/2" T&G....yes, one sanding and the top of the groove will fracture off. I was told by old timers that that thin 3/8" wood was milled in the turn of the century because the freight was more than the wood cost!! The San Francisco & San Jose area hardwood floors are almost all 5/16" x 2" non T&G top nailed from Lebanon Mills in Kentucky.
All were installed with the Cavanaugh top nailer. Here in Fresno there are a few of those floors and also 5/16" x 3-5-7" wide planks all stitch top nailed...Non T&G ! Cheers , TD
Well I live here in So Cali and trying to restore an old craftsman style 1914 home with the 3/8x2" oak floor looking for a source....
All were installed with the Cavanaugh top nailer. Here in Fresno there are a few of those floors and also 5/16" x 3-5-7" wide planks all stitch top nailed...Non T&G ! Cheers , TD
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