Firstly let me admit i am new to this belt sander, Lagler Hummel belt sander. I have seen numerous videos on Utube and the performnce of the machine was great. However i tried mine today on oak floor but as i ran the machine diagonally across the floor i see a very small track about 4" thats being cut. Please advise. i did try increasing the drum pressure but it docent help. Please advise
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Topic "Belt size abrasion cut not visible on the floor." a message from popzay
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Topic "8 inch acacia" a message from BobM
Arkansasandman Yes the short leaf acacia (Acacia Confusa) is a solid wood Handscraped Virginia Mill Works product. Its unique 8” wide butcher block board construction makes it more stable than traditional wood floors and is some 74% harder than Red Oak. This is a nail down product and the thinner 18 ga L-cleat nails, 1 ¼”-1 ½” long works best for this species. As with any installation it is important for installers to actually read and adhere to the manufacturers written instructions. Details on species characteristics, proper acclimation, nailers, moisture testing, and floor flatness requirements are all spelled out in the instructions. Regarding acacia stability it’s similar to that of Ash, so no real issues just acclimate well. The Virginia Mill Works products are milled to specified tolerances and at 6-9% moisture content. It is important for wider boards to be within a 2% (mc) balance with that of the subfloor before placing into service.
moderntech Of course prior to installation the milling should be checked for quality and proper fitment. Un-square or tapered ends can easily be cut off or simply discard the individual board. However using a micrometer for pass/fail milling acceptance isn’t necessary for installers. From a standing position one should be able to make a reasonable inspection of individual boards and overall quality. Wood and grass products are naturally hygroscopic meaning “seeking or attracting moisture”. It’s no mystery that moisture or lack of moisture due to various regions of the country, transportation and storage or poor jobsite conditions can all affect the shape of wood. In addition, individual board dimension, widths and thickness as well as precise tongue and groove fitment can be negatively altered due to uncontrolled moisture and temperature fluctuations. Therefore for these real reasons compliance to milling tolerances using either digital or manual micrometers is only applicable at the time of controlled milling, not weeks or sometimes months later on the jobsite.
moderntech Of course prior to installation the milling should be checked for quality and proper fitment. Un-square or tapered ends can easily be cut off or simply discard the individual board. However using a micrometer for pass/fail milling acceptance isn’t necessary for installers. From a standing position one should be able to make a reasonable inspection of individual boards and overall quality. Wood and grass products are naturally hygroscopic meaning “seeking or attracting moisture”. It’s no mystery that moisture or lack of moisture due to various regions of the country, transportation and storage or poor jobsite conditions can all affect the shape of wood. In addition, individual board dimension, widths and thickness as well as precise tongue and groove fitment can be negatively altered due to uncontrolled moisture and temperature fluctuations. Therefore for these real reasons compliance to milling tolerances using either digital or manual micrometers is only applicable at the time of controlled milling, not weeks or sometimes months later on the jobsite.
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Topic "Situations hardwood floor installations are a bad?" a message from Arkansasandman
Nuff said! Lol
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Topic "Install solid tread and risers with molding?" a message from Delta5
Hi - I searched around the site and haven't found what I am looking for. I'm a handy guy, I've got a few thousand feet of wood under my belt, plus plenty of other projects at the house. I paid someone to install teragren in my home, and currently I'm looking up information to help me resolve an issue I have with the work.
My issue is a very costly installation of Teragren solid risers and treads for a stair case (as part of a whole house job). The risers were not fit to the bottom of the tread, and the gap was covered with stained oak. Ugly, and it doesn't look professional. I believe I could have done better.
I'm looking for documentation from NWFA or anywhere else that shows good practice of how to install risers / treads. I've already contacted Teragren, and I am waiting on their guidance as well.
[font=arial, sans-serif]
[/font]
[font=arial, sans-serif]Two ways I would consider are: (1) fit the riser side to side, and scribe the top to account for any unevenness in the top; (2) run a kerf through the bottom of the tread for the riser to slot into.[/font]
[font=arial, sans-serif]
[/font]
[font=arial, sans-serif]What is good practice here, and is there any documentation describing it.[/font]
[font=arial, sans-serif]Thanks guys. I find many of the pics of work on here inspirational.[/font]
My issue is a very costly installation of Teragren solid risers and treads for a stair case (as part of a whole house job). The risers were not fit to the bottom of the tread, and the gap was covered with stained oak. Ugly, and it doesn't look professional. I believe I could have done better.
I'm looking for documentation from NWFA or anywhere else that shows good practice of how to install risers / treads. I've already contacted Teragren, and I am waiting on their guidance as well.
[font=arial, sans-serif]
[/font]
[font=arial, sans-serif]Two ways I would consider are: (1) fit the riser side to side, and scribe the top to account for any unevenness in the top; (2) run a kerf through the bottom of the tread for the riser to slot into.[/font]
[font=arial, sans-serif]
[/font]
[font=arial, sans-serif]What is good practice here, and is there any documentation describing it.[/font]
[font=arial, sans-serif]Thanks guys. I find many of the pics of work on here inspirational.[/font]
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Topic "Homerwood Oak Hardwood and Engineered" a message from herbert
I recently purchased a 3000 sq foot home, and have looked at about a dozen flooring stores and have decided I like the Homerwood Oak flooring. will buy both Engineered for concrete slab and hardwood for those areas with plywood subfloor. Going to cost me an average of $10-$11 a square foot just for the material. Want to ask the experts/installers. Any problems or concerns with this brand/line? Any special requirements or recommendations I should know? Still in the process of finding installers, and since the product is costing me an arm and a leg, would like to know as much as possible.
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Topic "Wood flooring installation knowledge" a message from GuoSenTeak
The teak wood floor you buy from store is essentially a semi and must be installed scientifically to be wood flooring products. Therefore, teak wood flooring installation is play a important role in its performance and quality. It must be installed properly, the following installation procedures and methods need to be strictly observed :
[ Preparation before teak wood flooring installation]
Other renovations should be completed before the wood flooring installation, in order to avoid it harmful to the teak wood flooring.
Before wood floor installation, you must ensure that the ground was dry , smooth and free of debris. Water pipes, heating pipes , wires, communication lines and other wood flooring should be adopted, so as not to damage to the wooden floor and overhaul inconvenience. If there are not avoiding these pipelines will likely affect the quality of flooring installation . Have been buried in the ground floor inside , please identify the specific location of the pipeline during construction.
A professional installation company will measuring wood floor installed area and discussed with the customer to develop teak wood flooring installation program, and the customer should according to the program and suggestions to buy teak wood floors.
[ Installation of wooden cage]
Must choose the drying , moth , straight planed wooden cage.
Depending on the specifications of the floor , crossed to determine the spacing between the wooden cage. Wooden cage must be dedicated to nailing on the ground .And the two wooden cages should be parallel and consistent spacing.
The thickness of the cage plus the thickness of the wood flooring is the height of decorate floor, and match to the other surface decoration.
Wooden cage must reach to a certain flatness , as the gap should not exceed the standard .
It does not allow to have a gap between the cage and the ground. It must be filled up with other material if there is a gap.
Having a certain gap between two wooden cages, as well as between the cage and wall.
When users fix the wooden cage by themselves, prohibited use of cement to reinforce it.
[Installation of teak wood flooring ]
![]()
Laying a layer of EPE moisture cushion on the installed wood cage.
First overall laying, on the one hand, check the product of further examination, on the other hand, to see the effect of tone color. Adjusting the teak wood floors to match the whole tone and coordinate the overall appearance.
To be left between the flooring and furniture reasonable space to accommodate expansion of wood affected by climate generated.
The teak wood flooring and wooden cage should be fixed firmly. After lead the first eye with a pistol drill, screw nails with a wooden floor dedicated close contact between the convex groove, but can not use a water-soluble adhesive bonding . Wood floor installation can not appear sound.
Increased closeout flooring patchwork appropriately. If the closing edge wood flooring is not fixed firmly, a little glue cement can be used to prevent future loss.
[ Preparation before teak wood flooring installation]
Other renovations should be completed before the wood flooring installation, in order to avoid it harmful to the teak wood flooring.
Before wood floor installation, you must ensure that the ground was dry , smooth and free of debris. Water pipes, heating pipes , wires, communication lines and other wood flooring should be adopted, so as not to damage to the wooden floor and overhaul inconvenience. If there are not avoiding these pipelines will likely affect the quality of flooring installation . Have been buried in the ground floor inside , please identify the specific location of the pipeline during construction.
A professional installation company will measuring wood floor installed area and discussed with the customer to develop teak wood flooring installation program, and the customer should according to the program and suggestions to buy teak wood floors.
[ Installation of wooden cage]
Must choose the drying , moth , straight planed wooden cage.
Depending on the specifications of the floor , crossed to determine the spacing between the wooden cage. Wooden cage must be dedicated to nailing on the ground .And the two wooden cages should be parallel and consistent spacing.
The thickness of the cage plus the thickness of the wood flooring is the height of decorate floor, and match to the other surface decoration.
Wooden cage must reach to a certain flatness , as the gap should not exceed the standard .
It does not allow to have a gap between the cage and the ground. It must be filled up with other material if there is a gap.
Having a certain gap between two wooden cages, as well as between the cage and wall.
When users fix the wooden cage by themselves, prohibited use of cement to reinforce it.
[Installation of teak wood flooring ]
Laying a layer of EPE moisture cushion on the installed wood cage.
First overall laying, on the one hand, check the product of further examination, on the other hand, to see the effect of tone color. Adjusting the teak wood floors to match the whole tone and coordinate the overall appearance.
To be left between the flooring and furniture reasonable space to accommodate expansion of wood affected by climate generated.
The teak wood flooring and wooden cage should be fixed firmly. After lead the first eye with a pistol drill, screw nails with a wooden floor dedicated close contact between the convex groove, but can not use a water-soluble adhesive bonding . Wood floor installation can not appear sound.
Increased closeout flooring patchwork appropriately. If the closing edge wood flooring is not fixed firmly, a little glue cement can be used to prevent future loss.
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Topic "Stain not adhering to flooring" a message from HOWGRUND
Is there a test that can be done on site to check for appropriate adhesion/penertration of stain?
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Topic "Splinters on new wood floor" a message from nina2014
Hello everyone , so glad I found this site !!!!
I just purchase a house, I decided to install new wood floor throughout the first floor to match the oak that was already install in the foyer.
so
it's been 2 months, and my children had splinters from the wood,
-in many places I notice more splits and cracks on the wood ( which are potential splinters for us) .
- plus all over the first floor there is a lot of stair steps / lightning ...
- I also drop my cellphone and it made a dent on the floor, everything we drop, even my 1 year old son's cup, makes a dent on the floor
The company wants to replace some of the planks . Is this even possible since it's an interlock style wood?
I doubt that would take care of the problem ....
is it the quality of the wood ?
what other solution do I have ?
Should I let them come and do a partial replacement or a total replacement?
please help I feel cheated![upset]()
edited by nina2014 on 6/9/2014
I just purchase a house, I decided to install new wood floor throughout the first floor to match the oak that was already install in the foyer.
so
it's been 2 months, and my children had splinters from the wood,
-in many places I notice more splits and cracks on the wood ( which are potential splinters for us) .
- plus all over the first floor there is a lot of stair steps / lightning ...
- I also drop my cellphone and it made a dent on the floor, everything we drop, even my 1 year old son's cup, makes a dent on the floor
The company wants to replace some of the planks . Is this even possible since it's an interlock style wood?
I doubt that would take care of the problem ....
is it the quality of the wood ?
what other solution do I have ?
Should I let them come and do a partial replacement or a total replacement?
please help I feel cheated
edited by nina2014 on 6/9/2014
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Topic "Transition strip. joining hardwoods" a message from bfan781
Good morning! First post. Getting ready to do my first hardwood project. I am adding 2 1/4 unfinished white oak to a hallway and kitchen. I am matching it to existing 2 1/4 white oak through out the rest of the house.
The rooms with the existing hardwoods are running length wise perpendicular to the joists. I am adding the hardwoods to the hallway. (same material) I would like to add a transition peice of two boards going across the threshold connecting the two spaces.
So basically to visualize better, the hallway and the living room and dining room will be all going in the same direction, since the dining room and living room are already installed, along those two thresholds, I plan to put two boards perpendicular to the rest.My question is. Will I run into problems not leaving that expansion gap on that side? The other end of the hallway will have the gap, but where it joins with the transition piece and into the existing room will not have a gap on that side. I also plan to cut the jamb so the transition perpendicular pieces will have the gapsWhat is the correct way to do this? I see it done often.
thanks
Greg
The rooms with the existing hardwoods are running length wise perpendicular to the joists. I am adding the hardwoods to the hallway. (same material) I would like to add a transition peice of two boards going across the threshold connecting the two spaces.
So basically to visualize better, the hallway and the living room and dining room will be all going in the same direction, since the dining room and living room are already installed, along those two thresholds, I plan to put two boards perpendicular to the rest.My question is. Will I run into problems not leaving that expansion gap on that side? The other end of the hallway will have the gap, but where it joins with the transition piece and into the existing room will not have a gap on that side. I also plan to cut the jamb so the transition perpendicular pieces will have the gapsWhat is the correct way to do this? I see it done often.
thanks
Greg
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Topic "Concrete moisture meter?" a message from Arkansasandman
I'm wanting a very accurate way of testing concrete moisture, I currently use calcium chloride tests and I have a hand held tramex. I'm curious what brands and types other guys are using that is easy to use and accurate. Thanks
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Topic "Oils/ Hardwax oils" a message from LesFlo
Coupla questions, don't know if they've been covered.
How well do the hardwax oils work on exotics?
Particularly the oily ones.
How well does it stand up to dogs?
Yes the dogs that are allowed to play in the house.
How well do the hardwax oils work on exotics?
Particularly the oily ones.
How well does it stand up to dogs?
Yes the dogs that are allowed to play in the house.
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Topic "Threshold Install" a message from diiulio
I have hardwood floors in my house and I just finished installing tile in my kitchen. I need to make a threshold between the two. I am slab on grade home, so the hardwood side is - poly, 3/4" floating plywood, paper, 3/4" hardwood. The tile side, is 3/4" mud, 5/16" Ditra, tile. I tried to make the tile flush with floor, but the tile is about 1/4" higher.
How do you suggest making a threshold between the two? I planned on putting down poly, 3/4" plywood, paper, than taking 1" x 2-1/4" piece of oak and beveling it 3/4" on the one side so it's height goes from 3/4" to 1" x 2-1/4". Then nail this down to the plywood. I can router in a female groove to mate against the flooring. I assumed to leave a 1/4" gap between the tile and threshold and caulk it with the same color as the grout. The tile has 1/4" grout lines that is why I figure 1/4" would work.
If this works, where do I find a 1" x 2-1/4" piece of oak? I called a lumber yard and they told me they don't do hardwood.
How do you suggest making a threshold between the two? I planned on putting down poly, 3/4" plywood, paper, than taking 1" x 2-1/4" piece of oak and beveling it 3/4" on the one side so it's height goes from 3/4" to 1" x 2-1/4". Then nail this down to the plywood. I can router in a female groove to mate against the flooring. I assumed to leave a 1/4" gap between the tile and threshold and caulk it with the same color as the grout. The tile has 1/4" grout lines that is why I figure 1/4" would work.
If this works, where do I find a 1" x 2-1/4" piece of oak? I called a lumber yard and they told me they don't do hardwood.
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Topic "Moisture Cured Adhesive Residue" a message from lbm3808
Hi,
I just had over 2000 sq feet of high gloss maple installed and my contractor left the glue on the surface until after install was complete. There is glue over a large portion of the install and now the glue is very hard to get off and there seems to be residue left behind or the finish has been altered as the posts above point to etching. He has offered to have someone come in and buff and wax the floors and if that doesn't work have the floors sanded and refinished. I am not sure what my options are. We have had multiple problems with this instal; high edges, gaps, nails through the top of the boards, sanded edges, patches etc. I went through a large box store to purchase the wood and also paid them to install it. What are my options. This project has gone on 4 months.
edited by lbm3808 on 6/13/2014
I just had over 2000 sq feet of high gloss maple installed and my contractor left the glue on the surface until after install was complete. There is glue over a large portion of the install and now the glue is very hard to get off and there seems to be residue left behind or the finish has been altered as the posts above point to etching. He has offered to have someone come in and buff and wax the floors and if that doesn't work have the floors sanded and refinished. I am not sure what my options are. We have had multiple problems with this instal; high edges, gaps, nails through the top of the boards, sanded edges, patches etc. I went through a large box store to purchase the wood and also paid them to install it. What are my options. This project has gone on 4 months.
edited by lbm3808 on 6/13/2014
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Topic "underlayment subsitute?" a message from flatlander
I am going to staple down a 3/8 or 1/2 engineered wood floor over a subfloor above a crawl space. I have plenty of building wrap (tyvek type material) I thought it would work as an underlayment and the price is right. Any thoughts?
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Topic "27 year old hearts of pine flooring; adding new" a message from gene99
This is p obably too late but I'll give it my best shot. I am in Savannah Ga & we a e expe ts at hea t pine. A pe son befo e said yellow pine. They a e co ect. Down he e we call it new hea t pine. It's not old g owth. & it's at least a #2 if not cabin g ade which pe sonally I'd like bette . keyboa d messed up. buff & coat that floo , maybe sand & finish. Cool floo If you want to match old g owth colo s w/ stain use Old Maste 's wiping stains in Ceda , ed Mahogony, Da k Walnut, Minwax ed Oak, Minwax Golden Oak, Minwax English Chestnut in multiple combinations. Pop g ain if supe da k . wo d to the wise, been the e done that. pop g ain fo that supe beautiful deep ed honey. else give up & c y
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Topic "Threshold Install" a message from dharrison
One great thing about working with wood is that you can cut it, shape it, glue it and pretty much come up with what ever thickness or shape you need. spend your time noodling out how to make this on the job....shouldn't be too hard to figure out that a 3/4" piece of oak and a 1/4" piece of oak can be glued up to make a 1" piece of oak. however I think the easiest way is to just run your regular 3/4 flooring up to where you were going to in the first place...and then drop in a reducer right on top of the wood....you can easily shape the reducer to match up to the height of the tile...you can get 5/16" oak reducers and with that you can easily plane it down to match the height...don't put an odd shaped piece of flooring there.....if you ever want to take up the tile etc....you'll then have to take out that odd piece of flooring....as opposed to just taking off the reducer....
edited by dharrison on 6/12/2014
edited by dharrison on 6/12/2014
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Topic "Belt size abrasion cut not visible on the floor." a message from Jeff
TDMAC wrote:
L to R with K&T Taurus 8
Flat
Norton-Prefer silicon carbide (I know) but use Red Heat also
Avi, you are so easy to die.....laughing?.![Pat on the head]()
. Are you a R to L or a L to R? tell the truth. Atre you a flat guy or tilted? ![Whaaaaa?]()
. Are you a R to L or a L to R? tell the truth. Atre you a flat guy or tilted? 
L to R with K&T Taurus 8
Flat
Norton-Prefer silicon carbide (I know) but use Red Heat also
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Topic "Splinters on new wood floor" a message from nina2014
yes n yes... I have a couple of planks left and I can see splenters on the edges n corners... the installation was bad too because I can see my subfloor in many places... they say it because of the climate but I am not convince, my friend's flooring id tight and the finish is sleek and flat there is no little bumps or spaces between the planks ... I am thinking about hiring an inspector to look at it .
if it is the wood like you said maybe I should get money back nd use a different company ... it's getting worse everyday more splinters
if it is the wood like you said maybe I should get money back nd use a different company ... it's getting worse everyday more splinters
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Topic "Moisture Cured Adhesive Residue" a message from lbm3808
Hi,
I just had over 2000 sq feet of high gloss maple installed and my contractor left the glue on the surface until after install was complete. There is glue over a large portion of the install and now the glue is very hard to get off and there seems to be residue left behind or the finish has been altered as the posts above point to etching. He has offered to have someone come in and buff and wax the floors and if that doesn't work have the floors sanded and refinished. I am not sure what my options are. We have had multiple problems with this instal; high edges, gaps, nails through the top of the boards, sanded edges, patches etc. I went through a large box store to purchase the wood and also paid them to install it. What are my options. This project has gone on 4 months.
edited by lbm3808 on 6/13/2014
I just had over 2000 sq feet of high gloss maple installed and my contractor left the glue on the surface until after install was complete. There is glue over a large portion of the install and now the glue is very hard to get off and there seems to be residue left behind or the finish has been altered as the posts above point to etching. He has offered to have someone come in and buff and wax the floors and if that doesn't work have the floors sanded and refinished. I am not sure what my options are. We have had multiple problems with this instal; high edges, gaps, nails through the top of the boards, sanded edges, patches etc. I went through a large box store to purchase the wood and also paid them to install it. What are my options. This project has gone on 4 months.
edited by lbm3808 on 6/13/2014
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Topic "underlayment subsitute?" a message from flatlander
I am going to staple down a 3/8 or 1/2 engineered wood floor over a subfloor above a crawl space. I have plenty of building wrap (tyvek type material) I thought it would work as an underlayment and the price is right. Any thoughts?
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