This is p obably too late but I'll give it my best shot. I am in Savannah Ga & we a e expe ts at hea t pine. A pe son befo e said yellow pine. They a e co ect. Down he e we call it new hea t pine. It's not old g owth. & it's at least a #2 if not cabin g ade which pe sonally I'd like bette . keyboa d messed up. buff & coat that floo , maybe sand & finish. Cool floo If you want to match old g owth colo s w/ stain use Old Maste 's wiping stains in Ceda , ed Mahogony, Da k Walnut, Minwax ed Oak, Minwax Golden Oak, Minwax English Chestnut in multiple combinations. Pop g ain if supe da k . wo d to the wise, been the e done that. pop g ain fo that supe beautiful deep ed honey. else give up & c y
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Topic "27 year old hearts of pine flooring; adding new" a message from gene99
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Topic "How to wax?" a message from Arkansasandman
Pete have you used the dura seal liquid wax or is the paste wax easier to use than the liquid?
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Topic "Sueing" a message from May
If I`m installing hardwood floors and it didn`t meet the NWFA moisture rules because I was "forced" to install can I be sued?
edited by May on 6/16/2014
edited by May on 6/16/2014
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Topic "Plywood Moisture" a message from May
I`m doing jobs for contractors that build new homes which some of the jobs I`m "forced" to install it even before the HVAC is working and of course the moisture of the plywood is about 15% or higher, which means there is 2 problems, here is my questions that I would like to be clear:
1) I understand that installing rifted and quarted is more stable, my question is: rifted and quarted over radiant heat versus plain sawn on regular plywood (not radiant heat) which one am I taking a bigger risk?
2)What I have seen in the past is that even you turn on the HVAC it could take weeks or even months till the moisture goes down (when they deliver the plywood it has moisture even the weathers are nice), what`s the best affordable solution to get out the moisture?
3) Is it better to deliver the wood and install right away before it picks up moisture or let it acclimate to the moisture of the plywood which is 15% as described above, please explain why.
edited by May on 6/16/2014
1) I understand that installing rifted and quarted is more stable, my question is: rifted and quarted over radiant heat versus plain sawn on regular plywood (not radiant heat) which one am I taking a bigger risk?
2)What I have seen in the past is that even you turn on the HVAC it could take weeks or even months till the moisture goes down (when they deliver the plywood it has moisture even the weathers are nice), what`s the best affordable solution to get out the moisture?
3) Is it better to deliver the wood and install right away before it picks up moisture or let it acclimate to the moisture of the plywood which is 15% as described above, please explain why.
edited by May on 6/16/2014
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Topic "How to wax?" a message from petesfloors
I prefer paste wax, however when I purchased the business from a die-hard floorman. He had a special technique where he dissolved wax in thinner and applied it with a bristle brush. I didn't learn the technique. He may have used shellac to seal the floor first.
I got a little one gallon metal pail with the wax on top where the 6 " brush was sticking out and about a pint of thinner under the semi-solid wax. Any way to get the wax on easier will save work. A fan in a doorway will dry the solvent quickly.
This may have been good enough for rental units, but I would have rather sanded floors instead.
I would never have guessed that wax protected floor finish would come back in style.
Slim at Floor Service Supply here in San Jose always said that if there was wax on the floor the varnish would be protected.
Pete
I got a little one gallon metal pail with the wax on top where the 6 " brush was sticking out and about a pint of thinner under the semi-solid wax. Any way to get the wax on easier will save work. A fan in a doorway will dry the solvent quickly.
This may have been good enough for rental units, but I would have rather sanded floors instead.
I would never have guessed that wax protected floor finish would come back in style.
Slim at Floor Service Supply here in San Jose always said that if there was wax on the floor the varnish would be protected.
Pete
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Topic "Belt size abrasion cut not visible on the floor." a message from hbrickman
Moderator-using linseed oil when sanding will create an extreme hazard of spontaneous combustion with the sanding residue. You should eliminate these remarks from the forum. hb
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Topic "Sueing" a message from May
If I`m installing hardwood floors and it didn`t meet the NWFA moisture rules because I was "forced" to install can I be sued?
edited by May on 6/16/2014
edited by May on 6/16/2014
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Topic "Plywood Moisture" a message from May
I`m doing jobs for contractors that build new homes which some of the jobs I`m "forced" to install it even before the HVAC is working and of course the moisture of the plywood is about 15% or higher, which means there is 2 problems, here is my questions that I would like to be clear:
1) I understand that installing rifted and quarted is more stable, my question is: rifted and quarted over radiant heat versus plain sawn on regular plywood (not radiant heat) which one am I taking a bigger risk?
2)What I have seen in the past is that even you turn on the HVAC it could take weeks or even months till the moisture goes down (when they deliver the plywood it has moisture even the weathers are nice), what`s the best affordable solution to get out the moisture?
3) Is it better to deliver the wood and install right away before it picks up moisture or let it acclimate to the moisture of the plywood which is 15% as described above, please explain why.
edited by May on 6/16/2014
1) I understand that installing rifted and quarted is more stable, my question is: rifted and quarted over radiant heat versus plain sawn on regular plywood (not radiant heat) which one am I taking a bigger risk?
2)What I have seen in the past is that even you turn on the HVAC it could take weeks or even months till the moisture goes down (when they deliver the plywood it has moisture even the weathers are nice), what`s the best affordable solution to get out the moisture?
3) Is it better to deliver the wood and install right away before it picks up moisture or let it acclimate to the moisture of the plywood which is 15% as described above, please explain why.
edited by May on 6/16/2014
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Topic "Moisture Cured Adhesive Residue" a message from lbm3808
Thanks again everyone for all your great advice and direction. I did complain to the company who sold me the wood and install. They came out and took a look at all the glue and ghosting. They contacted the wood company and were told to use denatured alcohol and dry erase pads to take the glue off and bring back the shine. I am worried because some posters have said that those pads are hard on the high gloss surfaces. Any feedback on this fix to get rid of the glue and ghosting.
edited by lbm3808 on 6/17/2014
edited by lbm3808 on 6/17/2014
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Topic "Germany Trip sponsored by Lagler" a message from petesfloors
Did anyone else win a trip to Germany?
Anyone leaving from the bay area in California?
I will be leaving from San Jose, CA.
Pete
Anyone leaving from the bay area in California?
I will be leaving from San Jose, CA.
Pete
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Topic "Threshold Install" a message from jfcwood
If it's level and if the edge of the tile is straight, I would make a threshold that butts into the tile, rabbetted out so it just lips over the top of the wood, sloped down to a 1/8" reveal. The rabbet would give the wood some expansion space. It should be relatively easy to find a piece of suitable 3/4" thick Oak and the whole thing could be made on a table saw. Make it, finish it, install plywood layers in the gap to build it up, then either glue or pin it down.
It would be somewhat like this picture http://www.greenflooringsupply.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/Baby_threshold.jpg if you were to cut off the slope on the right side and butt the piece to the edge of your tile. If the edge of the tile's not perfectly straight, you could still do this, but place the threshold a full to half grout joint width from the tile, then grout the gap.
It would be somewhat like this picture http://www.greenflooringsupply.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/Baby_threshold.jpg if you were to cut off the slope on the right side and butt the piece to the edge of your tile. If the edge of the tile's not perfectly straight, you could still do this, but place the threshold a full to half grout joint width from the tile, then grout the gap.
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Topic "Sample Contracts" a message from sc_hardwood_guy
could you email on to sjhardwoodflooring@gmail.com ? moderntech wrote:
I have one. What's your email address? It's specific to Oregon
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Topic "Price list for work in the California bay area..." a message from sc_hardwood_guy
any one have a good price list or brake down for the install/services listed bellow?
Sand/finish solid flooring- $
Install solid
(nail down)- $
(glue down)- $
(float)- $
(stairs)- $
Engineered
(nail down)- $
(glue down)- $
(float)- $
(stairs)- $
Laminate install- $
Laminate on stairs- $
Moisture/sound barrier install- $
Carpet, tile, base board removal etc. - $
as well as any other service charges...
Sand/finish solid flooring- $
Install solid
(nail down)- $
(glue down)- $
(float)- $
(stairs)- $
Engineered
(nail down)- $
(glue down)- $
(float)- $
(stairs)- $
Laminate install- $
Laminate on stairs- $
Moisture/sound barrier install- $
Carpet, tile, base board removal etc. - $
as well as any other service charges...
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Topic "Plywood underlay thickness" a message from toad56373
[font=Calibri, sans-serif]I am remodeling my 102 year old house, and replacing some of the flooring. I am installing a 3/4" oak hardwood floor, but the subfloor is 3/4" x 6" planks that are running in the same direction as the hardwood will run. Can I lay a 1/4" layer of plywood over it to level it off and cover the gaps between planks?[/font]
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Topic "X-98 or Traffic on clear Hickory" a message from jdfloorman
I use 98 all the time! What I usually do is coat with a dewaxed shellac like parks universal, than one coat of 96 for build, and a coat of 98 to finish it off. I have been using this system for about two years now with great results!
P.S the Pallmann 340 also works well.
edited by jdfloorman on 6/19/2014
P.S the Pallmann 340 also works well.
edited by jdfloorman on 6/19/2014
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Topic "Staining rubber wood?" a message from jdfloorman
I did a estimate the other day for a guy that had about 1200 square feet of prefinished, 3 plank, engineered rubber wood. The florring appears to have about a 4 mil wear thickness. He is looking to have it sanded, stained and finished. Any thoughts from you all? has anybody tried to stain it?
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Topic "Water base on top of oil base" a message from May
Can we recoat a floor which has an oil based finish with water base?
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Topic "install over 45 degree plank subfloor" a message from ohal3000
Hi Everybody,
I am getting prepped to install hardwood in my house. It is a 1924 house and everybody is telling my current hardwood is too thin to refinish. I worry my sub floor is a mess. It is 45 degree 1x6" planks with maybe half inch gaps. On top of that the floor has some waving. I plan to use asphalt shingles to help with dips and just attach the new hardwood to the more subtle contours of the floor. I have decided not to float an entirely new perfectly flat OSB subfloor. That would create a cascade of issues with he overall house.
That said, can just go ahead work with my original plank subfloor?
Thanks for your help, it will be greatly appreciated.
I am getting prepped to install hardwood in my house. It is a 1924 house and everybody is telling my current hardwood is too thin to refinish. I worry my sub floor is a mess. It is 45 degree 1x6" planks with maybe half inch gaps. On top of that the floor has some waving. I plan to use asphalt shingles to help with dips and just attach the new hardwood to the more subtle contours of the floor. I have decided not to float an entirely new perfectly flat OSB subfloor. That would create a cascade of issues with he overall house.
That said, can just go ahead work with my original plank subfloor?
Thanks for your help, it will be greatly appreciated.
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Topic "Install solid tread and risers with molding?" a message from JIMMIEM
Might be major surgery to replace the risers. Can you remove the ugly oak covering the gap and buy or make some scotia in the same species and finish as the tread?
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Topic "Threshold Install" a message from JIMMIEM
I had this situation and made transition/reducers from the same hardwood that I used for the flooring. Cut 1/4" off the underside of the side of the transition/reducer that will sit on the tile. Put 15 degree chamfers on the top edges of the transition/reducer to create a ramp down to the flooring surfaces. If you need an expansion gap between the hardwood and tile locate the transition/reducer's leg to allow for this gap.
edited by JIMMIEM on 6/21/2014
edited by JIMMIEM on 6/21/2014
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