I would think that if whoever hired you to do this understood what the standard practice was and signed a waiver acknowledging their understanding of the standard practice and giving you written informed consent to do it this way and that they understood and accepted any and all risk that you would be off the hook.
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Topic "Sueing" a message from JIMMIEM
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Topic "REGARDING TELLING THE CLIENT TOO MUCH" a message from JIMMIEM
I'd tell them. If something goes wrong they're going to do their after-the-fact homework and find out anyway....nothing proprietary about it. They may be mad but at least they will know that you were Honest with them and did provide all the info up front and didn't withhold or hide anything just to make the sale.
As a consumer I'd want the good, bad, and ugly up front.....may be disappointed but not surprised. Don't like those 'now you tell me' scenarios. Is it that big a deal to check a humidistat, run a humidifier and/or dehumidifier? As you said, these are better for the inhabitants and rest of the house contents too.
As a consumer I'd want the good, bad, and ugly up front.....may be disappointed but not surprised. Don't like those 'now you tell me' scenarios. Is it that big a deal to check a humidistat, run a humidifier and/or dehumidifier? As you said, these are better for the inhabitants and rest of the house contents too.
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Topic "White blotchy spots after finishing" a message from JLVivash
I installed some reclaimed red pine 5/4 that still had original finish on it along with 100 yrs of dirt and who knows what. deep sanded, wire brushed, stained with Bona Drifast, let dry for 12 hrs, finished with Loba sealer, when applying the first Loba top coat white blotches showed up on certain boards. Their original pine we sanded turned it perfect. I'm thinking its some contaminate in the newly installed pine, cold be wax? We scraped the areas to bare wood, recoated everything and 3/4 came back. Any ideas of things I can try? Board replacement is my last option. It would involve at least 40 boards
Just a note, I've seen this white patchy look before when applying WB finish but it normally disappears. Not sure what this is. Scary stuff.
Just a note, I've seen this white patchy look before when applying WB finish but it normally disappears. Not sure what this is. Scary stuff.
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Topic "Whats your favorite hardwood floor cleaner?" a message from sc_hardwood_guy
Bona
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Topic "Bona Standard 8..." a message from sc_hardwood_guy
Trying to find a Bona Standard 8 sander for sale. any one know where i could find one?
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Topic "Tramex #. ?" a message from Arkansasandman
I'm close to buying a Wagner 4.0 but for now I have a tramex meter I am using for concrete installs, for those of you using a tramex what number would you consider safe to lay? 3? 4? Is 5 safe I've always been kinda scared when it gets past about 4.5. Looking forward to your thoughts.
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Topic "Garrison French Connection Floor Defective" a message from WashingtonMom
Within a couple of weeks of installation our French Connection by The Garrison Collection floors began to crack and “check.” We had a NWFA inspection (paid for by the distributor) that stated that the problem occurred from drywall dust being damp mopped. This report is biased, blaming our contractor not the real source of the problem, that the floor are not suitable for use intended. Dust and dirt sticks to the finish, the floors have many small unsealed cracks allowing moisture to penetrate and the oil finish does not create a waterproof barrier. From the NWFA article I read (http://hardwoodfloorsmag.com/articles/article.aspx?articleid=1552&zoneid=1) "checking" occurs from mostly improper curing and is not due to onsite care. There has never been standing water on the floors and it occurs in rooms where no work was done. It is even happening under beds. Moisture levels have always been within normal range.
I've attached a photos of one of the checks.
Our contraction and installer have been great, but the distributor and Garrison Collection are making them take the blame.
I don't know how to proceed. These floors are 6 months old, are falling apart and giving my kids splinters. Any advise will be appreciated.
I've attached a photos of one of the checks.
Our contraction and installer have been great, but the distributor and Garrison Collection are making them take the blame.
I don't know how to proceed. These floors are 6 months old, are falling apart and giving my kids splinters. Any advise will be appreciated.
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Topic "Staining rubber wood?" a message from Ralph Brookens
It stains fine but the wood is soft. A lot of "hardwood parquet" is now rubber wood which is where I see it the most.
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Topic "Water base on top of oil base" a message from May
That`s nice to work so late at night, I hope you got paid a nice buck for it, I just sanded an oil based floor which was done 3 years ago and refinished with Bona mega semi gloss water base, the finish is beautiful.
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Topic "Plywood Moisture" a message from May
I showed all this post (also the post that are under the topic suing) for the contractor, meanwhile he`s holding off, he's trying to get the A/C running, but as I had seen in the past is that the A/C doesn't help so quick to take out the moisture of the plywood, does anybody have experience on how to get rid in a quick way of the moisture, please advice.
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Topic "X-98 or Traffic on clear Hickory" a message from May
I use most of the times 3 coats of Bona mega and the final (4th) coat Traffic (now I use Traffic HD), I never had a problem it`s beautiful and durable.
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Topic "Help Identifying Hardwood Floors" a message from alfalfa123
I'm helping a friend who is trying to replace his carpet in his bedrooms with the engineered hardwood flooring that is in the rest of his house. The problem is that we cannot figure out who makes it or where to find it. All we have is an old box! If possible, can someone take a look at the information in the picture and see if they have any clue who the manufacturer is and where I could find some? I really appreciate any help on this!
edited by alfalfa123 on 6/25/2014
edited by alfalfa123 on 6/25/2014
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Topic "Owens glue/nail down" a message from Jeff
I have my first engineered glue down job coming up! The home has radiant heat, some of the floor is a slab and some is plywood subfloor over a finished basement (division between the two will be a hallway and a French door opening to an office. Homeowners have gone with Owens 3" Brazilian cherry. Question is should I glue the whole thing or can I switch to cleats when I hit the plywood?
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Topic "Lagler Trio" a message from Mark
Does anyone know where I can buy a Lagler Trio? I've tried a few places that showed up on line and they have none in stock. I'm sure there's more then a few dealers out there, someone has to have one in stock?
TIA
Mark
TIA
Mark
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Topic "White blotchy spots after finishing" a message from JLVivash
Update, the finish over white spots had bad adhesion, in some white areas there was white powder like crystalization. Still not sure what exactly happened. Wax..dog urine..., ? We scrapped the white areas out, stained, returned next day to build finish, 25% white spots returned, we pbunched some through and filled making it look like distress and knots and used a black analin dye on some that was scattered over entire board. Then we coated again. Adhesion was good, thankfully it was a reclaimed pine floor that looked better with more distress and knots. Didn't make a whole lot of money on that one![smile]()
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Topic "Hartco Pattern Plus Hardwood floor" a message from marilynfsmith
My Hartco Pattern Plus Hardwood floor is 20 years old and in good condition. Every year I cleaned it with Hartco Easy Clean and finished with Hartco PP Shine, which is no longer available (a real loss). Last cleaning I used Easy Clean and then tried the replacement suggestion, Armstrong Shinekeeper. When I put furniture back, there were marks on the floor which I am unable to remove, even after cleaning again with Easy Clean. I am not happy with this product and want to know what else I can do to 1) remove the Shinekeeper and 2) Find another product which would work more like PP Shine. Can any help with this???
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Topic "Rescue Newly Installed EngHW Floors" a message from handynot
We purchased engineered hand scraped hardwood flooring w/an aluminum oxide/matte finish for our kitchen. The installer we used left urethane adhesive on the floor after he finished working each day insisting that Mineral Spirits would clean up the glue. On the last day (Saturday-Monday) he attempted to clean the floor -it was a disaster. There were several gray haze spots on the floor which would not clean up. He left and I tied to clean the floor -to no avail. Finally I applied QuickShine to the floor which hid the haze spots. I did not like the shine and wanted it removed. I removed most of the QuickShine product however some spots remained. I hired a professional who came in last week to remove the QuickShine. He buffed the floor and applied a single coat of satin finish polyurethane. The coating is so thin there are now fine scratches in the poly which I don't like. I want my Matte finish back. What can I do? Thank you.
PHOTOS INCLUDED
edited by handynot on 6/30/2014
edited by handynot on 6/30/2014
edited by handynot on 6/30/2014
PHOTOS INCLUDED
edited by handynot on 6/30/2014
edited by handynot on 6/30/2014
edited by handynot on 6/30/2014
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Topic "Safest area rug padding on top of hardwood floors" a message from drewsully
Looking for the safest padding that wont discolor hardwood floors. Cushioning is more important than non slip.
Thanks
Thanks
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Topic "Breaking down shipment at jobsite" a message from jlnash
My wife and I are installing our own 1x8x8 TnG red pine in our home. We are getting 2800 sqft of unfinished planks that are being shipped in three bundles, each 1500lbs. It's direct from a mill, so what will happen is a semi will pull up, I will either remove the pallets with a forklift or (hopefully) they will be lowered to street level so I can use a pallet truck to move them to the garage. Once in the garage, I will need to break down each bundle to a reasonable size so I can carry all the stock in the house (it's an attached garage, front door and garage door to house very narrow... don't think the pallets will fit through the doors).
My question is: should I attempt to re-bundle the planks after I break down each bundle, or can I leave the planks stacked nicely un-bundled for the acclimatization period? If it matters, the wood is coming from Michigan (humid) to New Mexico (dry).
If I were to re-bundle, what size bundles, and what materials will be necessary? Should I simply mimic the shipment?
My question is: should I attempt to re-bundle the planks after I break down each bundle, or can I leave the planks stacked nicely un-bundled for the acclimatization period? If it matters, the wood is coming from Michigan (humid) to New Mexico (dry).
If I were to re-bundle, what size bundles, and what materials will be necessary? Should I simply mimic the shipment?
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Topic "Funny for everyone!" a message from Columbia River Hardwood Floors
This is a link to a Craigslist ad in Portland, OR looking for someone to sand their painted fir.... Read it and LAUGH!
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/lbg/4544103226.html
Hope this link stays good for some of you to enjoy it.
edited by Columbia River Hardwood Floors on 7/1/2014
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/lbg/4544103226.html
Hope this link stays good for some of you to enjoy it.
edited by Columbia River Hardwood Floors on 7/1/2014
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