Hot water, a terry cloth towel and some elbow grease! Always works.... leaves no residue!
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Topic "Whats your favorite hardwood floor cleaner?" a message from Columbia River Hardwood Floors
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Topic "install over 45 degree plank subfloor" a message from ohal3000
Thanks for all the help!
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Topic "Baseboards and expansion gaps" a message from ohal3000
Hi, Me again.
I am in Los Angeles, inland and getting ready to install 3/4" pre-finished white oak in mid July.
I really do not want to remove the baseboard because they are completely attached to the house. Even the original floor which I am tearing out was installed after the baseboards. Tearing these out will create a lot of headache with the plaster and paint, etc.
1. So, will just using quarter rounds be enough to hide the expansion gap?
2. If I am installing in the summer, do I need as much expansion gap because if anything I should expect the wood to contract?
3. Is los angeles, as susceptible to expansion and contraction? I have no heating or cooling in my house.
I do not want to account for the ridiculous 3/4" expansion, only to have my floors contract and expose gaps near the quarter round. By having 3/4, you need to be covered 1.5" total. That is too much for me who does not want to remove and reinstall baseboards.
Thanks for your input.
I am in Los Angeles, inland and getting ready to install 3/4" pre-finished white oak in mid July.
I really do not want to remove the baseboard because they are completely attached to the house. Even the original floor which I am tearing out was installed after the baseboards. Tearing these out will create a lot of headache with the plaster and paint, etc.
1. So, will just using quarter rounds be enough to hide the expansion gap?
2. If I am installing in the summer, do I need as much expansion gap because if anything I should expect the wood to contract?
3. Is los angeles, as susceptible to expansion and contraction? I have no heating or cooling in my house.
I do not want to account for the ridiculous 3/4" expansion, only to have my floors contract and expose gaps near the quarter round. By having 3/4, you need to be covered 1.5" total. That is too much for me who does not want to remove and reinstall baseboards.
Thanks for your input.
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Topic "Damaged Pre-finished Brazilian Cherry Flooring" a message from Tenant_Trouble
I need help trying to figure out how to clean some gunk off my alum ox pre-finished Cherry floors. The tenants who lived in the house for about 3 years used some kind of cleaner on the floors (despite being told not to) that basically has acted like glue. All along the baseboards is a line of stuck-on dirt. I don't know what they used but it had to be something like mop & glo. So far, my husband has tried a Bona cleaner for hardwoods and Goo gone but that didn't help any. Any suggestions on how to remove this grime? What about using steam?
I'm really hoping to not have to get the floors professionally refinished (there are also a lot of scuffs and scratches but my husband has managed to treat them so they are less visible) as it will all come out our pocket. Thanks!
I'm really hoping to not have to get the floors professionally refinished (there are also a lot of scuffs and scratches but my husband has managed to treat them so they are less visible) as it will all come out our pocket. Thanks!
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Topic "Staining maple with raised grain?" a message from Arkansasandman
I'm popping the grain tomorrow on a select maple with a water/alcohol mix, I will stain with antique brown on Saturday. I've done a lot of popped grain floors but recently started staining with buffer and carpet, I have a 2 year old Clark buffer with standard gray rubber wheels. My question is will the buffer wheels close the grain rolling it across the floor? I'm really not wanting to learn on the job on this one. So I was thinking someone on here does it all the time and could tell me.
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Topic "Hardwax oil finish on top of a stain or dye?" a message from wlarmsby
Hello,
I've been planning to use Fiddes Hardwax Oil to finish a piece of walnut furniture. But my client would like a uniform color in the walnut, so I am going need to use a dye to darken the sapwood. But before I do this, I wonder how well the Hardwax Oil will bond (because it is a penetrating finish), if there is another product underneath. The forums I've read about dyeing the sapwood usually call for a topcoat like lacquer or shellac.... They don't mention a penetrating finish. Any thoughts?
edited by wlarmsby on 7/3/2014
I've been planning to use Fiddes Hardwax Oil to finish a piece of walnut furniture. But my client would like a uniform color in the walnut, so I am going need to use a dye to darken the sapwood. But before I do this, I wonder how well the Hardwax Oil will bond (because it is a penetrating finish), if there is another product underneath. The forums I've read about dyeing the sapwood usually call for a topcoat like lacquer or shellac.... They don't mention a penetrating finish. Any thoughts?
edited by wlarmsby on 7/3/2014
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Topic "Dip in Plywood Subfloor" a message from JIMMIEM
I'm installing 3/4" X 2 1/4" solid prefinished Red Oak flooring perpendicular to the joists. In checking my subfloor (3/4" t&g plywood) I found a dip that runs parallel to the joists and is between 1/8" and 3/16" at the lowest point. I have added additional screws and everything is solid (room is over unfinished basement and joists have cross bracing). The dip tapers down to the low spot over a 2 foot span and is 3 feet long (room is 12' X 12'). Other than this dip the subfloor is pretty flat. The subflooring has quite a few smaller pieces as opposed to all large sheets. What do you recommend I use to build up the dip?
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Topic "Best Vacuum??" a message from Arkansasandman
I have 4 of the Clarke CAV 12 vacuums, they are good but It seems on or two at a time are always breaking down either where cord meets the machine or cord end. I just had new motors put in two of them. My next vacuume will be a different brand.
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Topic "SubFloor Squeaks" a message from JIMMIEM
I've been removing all the wall to wall carpeting and replacing with 3/4 X 2 1/4 solid t&g red oak. The subfloors are 3/4 t&g plywood and I've added screws between all the original nails. I've got a squeaky area between a couple of the joists. If I stand with a foot on each joist and shift my weight back and forth both joists squeak. I also get a squeak if I stand between the joists and bounce ( I weigh less than 150 lbs). Neither joist has a plywood joint on it. The room is over an unfinished basement and the joists have cross bracing. I checked to see if I could get shims between the subfloor and joists but there are no gaps. Would sistering 2 X 4's or 2 X 6's to the 2 X 10 joists be the solution? If so, should they be added with nobody standing on the subfloor?
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Topic "Solid Wood Floors" a message from S. Kelly
Depends on what sort of sanding is indicated. If you've got cupping or a previous bad sanding to remedy, you might take a sixteenth or so off. Most sandings, I would guess, take off less than 1/32".
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Topic "Particle Board Subfloor" a message from dbwatson
Simple. DON'T DO IT.
I guess you can't be a master at all trades.
I guess you can't be a master at all trades.
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Topic "Concrete sealers you have used?" a message from Arkansasandman
I have a small 800 foot prefinished engineer job to lay. CACL test showed 7.92 pounds. Tramex showed 5.5. This is new construction, and I did my test at wettest spot I could find with tramex. What type of sealers have you used that are good quality and easy to use? I have used MVP before but it seems pretty expensive.
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Topic "Advice needed for problem sanding and finish" a message from davidked
Hello everyone,
I hired a company to restore my entire second floor, which is in white oak, and to lay maple on my entire first floor. The company restored the white oak first and it looks fantastic. I couldn't find a flaw except for one minor corner that could have been sanded a bit better. Overall, I was thrilled. However, the first floor is a disaster. They did it once and it was uneven, gouged, wavy, etc. The owner came out and quickly agreed it needed to be redone.
I displaced my family for a week again but it needed to be done. I checked after the sanding, first coat, and second coat and everything seemed to be fine. They had cross-cut the worst section and that concerned me because it looked like they were taking out a lot of wood. But overall, I guess it seemed fine. I get back in yesterday after the final coat and I was shocked and how bad it looked. Issues:
1) Scratches in the floor
2) Pockmarks (not sure how to describe)
3) General waviness. A bit across the entire floor but much worse in places
4) improperly applied finish
5) Valleys gouged into floor. Could be subfloor but there was hardwood here before with with no dip. This happened in several spots.
6) Not enough stain all over the place. Easy to see and feel with hand. No photo.
I am not sure what to do at this point as no options are good. Refusing to pay the second 5k doesnt seem to be enough. I spent a ton of time and energy preparing and remodeling my house and I want a great floor. But, I don't even know if it can be finished a 3rd time without greatly shortening the life of the floor. Certainly, I have no faith in this company to do it right.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
David
edited by davidked on 7/8/2014
I hired a company to restore my entire second floor, which is in white oak, and to lay maple on my entire first floor. The company restored the white oak first and it looks fantastic. I couldn't find a flaw except for one minor corner that could have been sanded a bit better. Overall, I was thrilled. However, the first floor is a disaster. They did it once and it was uneven, gouged, wavy, etc. The owner came out and quickly agreed it needed to be redone.
I displaced my family for a week again but it needed to be done. I checked after the sanding, first coat, and second coat and everything seemed to be fine. They had cross-cut the worst section and that concerned me because it looked like they were taking out a lot of wood. But overall, I guess it seemed fine. I get back in yesterday after the final coat and I was shocked and how bad it looked. Issues:
1) Scratches in the floor
2) Pockmarks (not sure how to describe)
3) General waviness. A bit across the entire floor but much worse in places
4) improperly applied finish
5) Valleys gouged into floor. Could be subfloor but there was hardwood here before with with no dip. This happened in several spots.
6) Not enough stain all over the place. Easy to see and feel with hand. No photo.
I am not sure what to do at this point as no options are good. Refusing to pay the second 5k doesnt seem to be enough. I spent a ton of time and energy preparing and remodeling my house and I want a great floor. But, I don't even know if it can be finished a 3rd time without greatly shortening the life of the floor. Certainly, I have no faith in this company to do it right.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
David
edited by davidked on 7/8/2014
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Topic "Werkmaster" a message from JLVivash
Has anyone used the 8 headed sander ? any reviews?
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Topic "I have another question re: damaged floors" a message from Tenant_Trouble
Hi - I am wondering if any of you know what might work to cover scratches on prefinished Brazilian Cherry floors. I can't get any kind of stain to stick.
Also, since I am still not sure I won't have to get the floors refinished, can you give a rough idea of what it would cost (per sq ft) to have them professionally refinished? I think I have about 600 sq ft of flooring. Thanks.
Also, since I am still not sure I won't have to get the floors refinished, can you give a rough idea of what it would cost (per sq ft) to have them professionally refinished? I think I have about 600 sq ft of flooring. Thanks.
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Topic "Franklin titebond 771 ?" a message from Arkansasandman
Anyone have anything good or bad to say about frankin titebond 771 glue?
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Topic "Floating floor over damaged concrete slab" a message from hammeringhomebody
Hi! So, i've just bought a house and i'm trying to fix it up myself (for lack of money). The previous owners had carpet installed over the concrete slab in one of the rooms, and the nails holding it in rusted and broke off. Bottom line is, the concrete has small divots in it all around the room where i took the nails out after removing the carpet. Probably about 1" across, maybe 1/4" to 1/2" deep. I have a floating engineered wood floor ready to put in, with 3-in-1 moisture barrier/insulation/padding underlayment for underneath. I'm wondering, do i need to fill in all of the divots left by the nails, or will my underlayment ride successfully over them?
Thanks!
--Lily
Thanks!
--Lily
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Topic "Stair parts" a message from JIMMIEM
Ken Ballin wrote:
Biscuit Joiner.
I have a customer that wants 3/4 x 3 1/4 oak installed in an upstairs hallway. There are oak railing sills on both sides of the hall, it's open on both sides. I'd like to butt the flooring against these plates but I am concerned because there will be no tongue and groove engagement. There's no room for my router without removing the balusters. Any thoughts? Thanks guys.
Biscuit Joiner.
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Topic "Oils/ Hardwax oils" a message from building
We are installing tongue and groove yellow pine boards in our new house. We are debating between the RMC and the Ciranova full solid hardwax oil. Is there anyone experienced with using either one on knotty southern yellow pine? Does a conditioner need to be applied first? If the rubio monocoate is used does the maintenance oil work well for the top coat or is the Ciranova a better top coat? Thank you
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Topic "sanding 11" wide soft white pine & use dark stain." a message from chevy
wood is so soft even a fess tool orbital with 120 paper left pigtail circles. we edged with 100 seems like the 4,000 sq. ft. job needs to be hand sanded! every square inch perimeter! i know im going to have to prestain to stop blotching, but another question, does a stand up orbital work better than buffing with 150 or what grit to get out lines & make it smooth? been in business 35 years 7 GOTTA BELIEVE THERE IS AN EASIER WAY THAN HAND SANDING! anyone with previous experience please respond asap. thanks, Charles, Stone Mountain Wood Floors, northeast Ohio. or call 201.424.9500.
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