Quantcast
Channel: Hardwood Floors - Recent Posts
Viewing all 522 articles
Browse latest View live

Topic "Concrete moisture meter?" a message from Jim Decker

$
0
0
I have a Lignomat Versa Tec, insulated pin mode, scan mode 1/4" to 3/4" for non evasive top and bottom testing and rh testing. Sensors are not left in concrete but are removable and reusable. check it out at lignomat.com

Topic "Install pricing in california?" a message from tdmac

$
0
0
WHAT?? that's confidential.. then bid against me???Whaaaaa?

Topic "What vapor retarder over sealed crawl space?" a message from fstamm7

$
0
0
I am getting conflicting answers, so I hope you can help me out.

I am about to install 1600 sqf of solid, prefinished maple over a sealed and actively dehumidifier crawl space. Subfloor is plywood.

What vapor retarder should be used?

Any harm in using an impermeable retarder?

Thanks! Tony

Topic "pee uuuu Cat urine in antique pine floors." a message from Master Craftsman

$
0
0
OK, I need successful methods to remove excessive cat urine from antique pine floors. The floors are T & G 1 1/4" thick X 6". Manufactured prior to 1874. I have sanded and sanded and sanded some more. The homeowners have tried everything they have heard, every product recommended. The walls, widow sills, window frames peeuuuu. The house is historic and everyone wants to keep the floors intact.

Topic "Installing harward flooring and leveling" a message from gpeters

$
0
0
After removing the carpet in my living room I discovered one pretty uneven spot. In the uneven spot I ended up using self leveling compound which worked good.


Now after I have all the new plywood down on top of the Particle Board I have a few areas with 1/16 or less of a gap, when I use a long level.
My question: is 1/16 a workable gap when installing hardwood floor. I'm installing 3/4 Maple hardwood.
edited by gpeters on 7/15/2014

Topic "Best underlayment for eng hardwood over particle?" a message from BigMan

$
0
0
Hi - Tried researching many places - very confusing - what is the best underlayment to use for engineered hardwood throughout our single-story home? We will have particle board subflooring. Note that there can be quite a bit of water under the house in rainy season so we have installed a sump pump. (California so no basement....)

Topic "getting a pale gray almost white stained oak floor" a message from desperate for pale gray/white stained wood floor

$
0
0
[font=arial]Hello, I am desperate for some advice on getting a pale gray - almost white wood floor. I have put in new 4" red oak. We choose red oak because was told it would bleach better. My contractor has put down some samples for me-- The wood has been bleached once. The white stain does not look quite right , and seems pink . The gray stain looks a bit green-- with the hint of red /orange still showing through. I really want the soft almost white color that seems gray. Possibly what I think is a gray washed oak floor- is actually just white washed? Can anybody give me any advice for my contractor? should he bleach the wood twice? and besides the first sanding should they be sanding between bleach - stain- and the non yellowing poly. Thank you, I am grateful for anyones advice. [/font]
[font=arial]the links of the look I want should be on this post.[/font]

Topic "White blotchy spots after finishing" a message from JimNg

$
0
0
Jason,

Were the white spots just random or were they more to certain parts of the wood (ie. knots ). I have had a similar issue with eastern white pine and just natural waterbase finish. I question whether the ph in that affected area is too high....

Topic "X-98 or Traffic on clear Hickory" a message from JimNg

$
0
0
The sealer coat handles some aspect of floor finishing that the finish or top coat does not. For example, waterbase finishes requires the sealer coat for two primary reasons. 1) so that you're not wasting expensive finish being soaked in the wood. 2) the finish is so strong that applying it without a sealer would generally result in the panelization and sidebonding that the other users have referred to.
If it is not a strong waterborne finish (like most catalyzed 2 components are) then you can use it for the first coat to act like a sealer coat (for example, we some time use Mega as the first coat instead of DTS or BonaSeal)

Topic "Lagler Trio" a message from JimNg

$
0
0
Palo Duro Hardwood out of Denver is the United States' importer of the Lagler brand, if you call them, i am sure they can find a dealer for you.

Topic "Signage/advertising" a message from JimNg

$
0
0
As far as i know, you are able to place those company's advertisement on your commercial vehicle as long as it is in good and well intended nature. Also, they won't be paying you for it and so you will pay for all the charges to obtain and put those logos there. They might be able to help you get the right graphics file, but that is about it.

Topic "Hard plating" a message from 845clean

$
0
0
I am a janitorial services contractor. I spend a lot of time behind a 175rpm buffer doing vinyl, ceramic tile, terrazzo, etc. For wood floors, I have about 20-25 screen and recoat jobs under my belt, buff with 100 or 120 grit screen, then a coat of poly. If it is a restaurant, you got to degrease the floor first. That is the extent of my experience.
Anyhow, I am popping my cherry on hardwood. Rented an Alto square buff. Started with 20, went to 36, started seeing the most material removed with the 60 and 80 actually, but the floor is over 100 years old and has lots of cupping issues, as well as significant cat urine contamination issues. Can't get the low spots. If you sweep it with a push broom, it feels like it is sweeping the ocean. I discovered the square buff isn't going to hack it. Even with an 80 grit screen, my buffer was just lightly getting the high points.
Not really sure I want to drum sand. Has been drum sanded at least once before. I don't want to drum sand unless I have to. I am wondering about hard plating with my buffer. More aggressive than driving a screen under a pad. As a newb to wood I don't know if I'm wasting my time this way. I like the buffer because I have probably buffed 750,000-800,000 sf ft in my lifetime, though most of it not wood. Thanks.
Peter

Topic "pee uuuu Cat urine in antique pine floors." a message from 845clean

$
0
0
I'd love to hear anyone's remedy for cat/dog urine clean up.

Topic "Hardwax oil finish on top of a stain or dye?" a message from building

$
0
0
thank you so much db watson. Have you tried Pallmann magic oil or Rubio monocoate? We are leaning toward the Magic Oil. Also, if you do not mind, what grit sandpaper is needed to sand a pine floor? I'm sure you can tell this is all new to us. Thank you for your help.

Topic "Problem with oak floor" a message from Tpdp32

$
0
0
I Sanded an existing oak floor almost one year ago. It was taken down to bare wood, stained with oil based stain and finished with glitsa poly 500 (3 coats). So one year has gone by and no problems with the floor, but now the home owner calls and says there is a problem. I do a site visit and sure enough the finish is lifting, but only right in the board joints. At first I though I had done something wrong and left contaminates in the cracks, but I do a lot of these oak floors and never have a problem. As the site visit went on I became suspicious about how the homeowner was cleaning the floor because she kept repeating to me how she cleans her floor and how she never uses too much water. Would over cleaning a floor with water cause the finish to come up in the board joints? And if not why would this finish problem occur a full year later. There are no finish issue else where. Just on the seams of the boards where the water would sit ? Any one seen this before?

Topic "Installing harward flooring and leveling" a message from conklinbros

$
0
0
Hi gpeters.. I asked around the shop today and got this for a answer..

"It is not advisable to put plywood over particle board. I would recommend removing the particle board as particle board is not suitable sub flooring. Regarding the gaps in the plywood, that should not create a problem. You should also install a vapor underlayment on the plywood before installing the hardwood."


Topic "new hickory cupping" a message from JIMMIEM

$
0
0
Jeff,
Now you must remember hickory is a VERY unstable wood...it moves A LOT with very little moisture change. Its much different than red oak!
Just FMI (For My Information), I have a chart that lists hickory as 11% less stable than red oak....is this accurate based on your experience? Thank You.
P.S. I didn't insert your quote properly....my apologies.
edited by JIMMIEM on 7/24/2014

Topic "White milky areas spreading on my new R+Q red oak" a message from Jim Decker

$
0
0
This is no doubt an original BUT if it has occurred previously somewhere in the United States it is possible someone watching this forum may have had it occur. They may not know why as this is the nature of refinishing wood floors. Frankly, and sand and refinish MAY fix the problem BUT no one may know why or if it will. Such a small area would be more simply fixed by replacing that small area. It appears experts have done on site evaluations to no avail or I would suggest an NWFA inspector. The plain fact is many times it cannot be definitively proven what causes such strange things to happen many times.

Topic "Concrete moisture testing" a message from sc_hardwood_guy

$
0
0
How many of you use a pin less meter to check concrete slabs, before using a calcium chloride test? Also which meter's do you use?

Topic "Can you oversand? Help please -three sandings" a message from Columbia River Hardwood Floors

$
0
0
No stress! If the chatter is gone then problem is solved.

Don't worry about them sanding too much of your floor either. Bet you still have another 3 complete sands left in it.

Be happy the company was stand up about their work and is making it right for you. Just try not to bust their balls too much because I bet the owner is embarrassed and mortified this has happened in the first place.
Viewing all 522 articles
Browse latest View live