Good Afternoon and thank you in advance for any counsel. I have recently purchased Builders Pride Acacia hardwoods for my home and look to install on the entire first floor which is over an incapsulated crawl space. When ordered, I was encouraged to also purchase the Bellawood Premium Underlayment to use in place of felt paper. After doing my due diligence and reading several comments in this great forum, I wonder aloud if this is the right product or just a "check out add on" that I was roaped into? My intention was to purchase it for sound abatement and as a moisture barrier but hear from many that over time, it could cause the hardwoods to loosen, cup, crack and/or seperate. My questions: Should I use this product for hardwoods? If no, what should be put in its place to fulfill, at least, the moisture barrier? My thanks!
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Topic "Underlayment for new 3/4 inch Acacia Wood floors" a message from Ahoyloy
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Topic "Just got my new Trio & have a questioner 2?" a message from Avi Hadad
You paid good money for the Trio. A part of it is the integrated dust collection. It is wonderful and requires a close to zero maintenance. I love the Trio because I only have it hooked up to power. I am not a fan of dragging around a vacuum hose for no good reason. If someone made a cordless Trio I'd buy it! :-)
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Topic "Concrete sealers you have used?" a message from Avi Hadad
Sika MB Primer hands down. Why be on your knees troweling a slab when you can stand up rolling?
Read the instructions before use!
I've used it on green slabs with the recommendation of the Sika reps. 100% success.
Did I mention read the instructions?![smile]()
Read the instructions before use!
I've used it on green slabs with the recommendation of the Sika reps. 100% success.
Did I mention read the instructions?
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Topic "Poor installation?" a message from Kathye
We recently had pre finished red oak installed in 4 areas. The company subbed out the work. We asked owner of store to come out because we have many areas with end to end not being even and spaces between boards over much of the floor. Owner said we didn't understand per finished hardwood and that the only way to have even floors was to sand and refinish. He said as long as a credit card could slide on the floor it was,ok and that cracks were normal as long as a quarter didn't fit into it. This is July and what will happen to these cracks come a cold winter. We don't want to have to sand and refinish a brand new floor. Should we have these problems? The picture just shows a small area of imperfections. These are all over all 4 areas.
edited by Kathye on 7/26/2014
edited by Kathye on 7/26/2014
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Topic "Redgard + poly?" a message from WooShao
This past week I had some professional installers come by to install my engineered flooring. They took moisture measurements and found them to be way too high in my slab. They recommended I seal the floor with RedGard, which I've done.
I've also purchased some 6 mil poly that could cover the slab. I like the idea of that second layer, but will it cause any issues? I'd really rather overkill the moisture problem potential than to be sorry down the road.
I've also purchased some 6 mil poly that could cover the slab. I like the idea of that second layer, but will it cause any issues? I'd really rather overkill the moisture problem potential than to be sorry down the road.
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Topic "Diy floor sanding guidance needed" a message from in over my head
Hello, my husband and i put down 4 inch white oak unfinished floors and are now attempting to sand them. I decided to use a random orbital instead of the drum mainly because of a narrow long hallway that would have been impossible to go with the grain and because the floors were remarkably flat without much overwood at all. We sanded the floors at 36 grit, 60 grit and 100 grit and thought they looked and felt great. However now that i am looking at them with a flashlight, i can see small swirls or pigtails everywhere. I tried my finish in the closet and it seems that it highlights the swirls.
So i am not sure what to do now. I can hand sand them out at 80 and then 100 grit and get most of them, but that is going to take forever. I could go get another machine, but I am afraid i will end up with the same swirls. Any thoughts? Do i need to just hire someone? Will screening take these sort of swirls out? I am used to building furniture and have never hand this problem, but I usually go up to a higher grit. I would be grateful for any advice as my husband and i are living in one bedroom with a 5 year old and a one year old until we get this done!
So i am not sure what to do now. I can hand sand them out at 80 and then 100 grit and get most of them, but that is going to take forever. I could go get another machine, but I am afraid i will end up with the same swirls. Any thoughts? Do i need to just hire someone? Will screening take these sort of swirls out? I am used to building furniture and have never hand this problem, but I usually go up to a higher grit. I would be grateful for any advice as my husband and i are living in one bedroom with a 5 year old and a one year old until we get this done!
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Topic "White milky areas spreading on my new R+Q red oak" a message from OBD
Chemical reaction between the oil based stain and the water based polyurethanes. The quarter sawn flooring is vertical grain, and the stains seem to take longer to dry as opposed to plain sawn flooring. You did not list a time frame for all the finishes and drying times. They could have poured the stain out in that spot and worked out it making that spot heavier; or if they ragged the stain on that could have been a spot where the dipped the rag in the stain and worked out of a "puddle" there. Both would cause a heavier concentration in that area.
I would suggest using a dri fast natural stain (dura seal) Bona Amber seal as your sealer, then abrade and top coat with the traffic. We install a lot of quarter sawn flooring, and this is the process we use and do not have any problems with it. *knocks on wood*
I would suggest using a dri fast natural stain (dura seal) Bona Amber seal as your sealer, then abrade and top coat with the traffic. We install a lot of quarter sawn flooring, and this is the process we use and do not have any problems with it. *knocks on wood*
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Topic "Matching Floors Too Dark" a message from phxxman
Hi There,
We recently added unfinished floors to two bedrooms in our house, and hired a local contractor to finish them for us. We asked him to match the existing floors in the house, which he said he did. Now he has completed the job, and the new floors look relatively darker then the existing floors. We asked our contractor about this, and he said when you add the stain, the floors get wet and as a result are darker. He said it takes about two months for the floors to fully dry out and lose the extra color. We have looked all over the internet and can't find anything that backs this up. Is this correct? The stain he used is a Bona Drifast Stain - Oil-Modified. The finish he used is Bona Mega - Waterborne Wood Floor Finish. Thanks for your help!
We recently added unfinished floors to two bedrooms in our house, and hired a local contractor to finish them for us. We asked him to match the existing floors in the house, which he said he did. Now he has completed the job, and the new floors look relatively darker then the existing floors. We asked our contractor about this, and he said when you add the stain, the floors get wet and as a result are darker. He said it takes about two months for the floors to fully dry out and lose the extra color. We have looked all over the internet and can't find anything that backs this up. Is this correct? The stain he used is a Bona Drifast Stain - Oil-Modified. The finish he used is Bona Mega - Waterborne Wood Floor Finish. Thanks for your help!
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Topic "Safest area rug padding on top of hardwood floors" a message from gabiwu
Thanx for advice
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Topic "Sample Contracts" a message from mqscmc
moderntech.....I just saw this and I am also interest if possible. I am a contractor in Los Angeles and want to put a contract together. Any possibility that you could share your contract so I can use as a reference for mine? If so, please email it to mqscmc@me.com Thank you so much for your time.
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Topic "Time for a new big machine" a message from Garrett
Hey. I currently have a Clarke Floor crafter belt sander and am needing to add another belt sander to my collection. Anyone here have one of the new Pallman cobras? I'm thinking of maybe getting one of these or a Hummel. Any thoughts?
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Topic "Sueing" a message from hbrickman
JIMMIEM,
That is an excellent point.
But in defense of David and Roy I think that two factors form the basis of their position regarding the waiver of liability.
1-Consumer protection laws in many states give the consumer a great deal of "protection" against slick talking double dealing salesmen and contractors. AND
2-The NWFA Installation Guidelines specifically states "Installation constitutes acceptance of flooring material, subfloor/substrate, the job site itself including the ambient temperature and relative humidity at the time of installation, and all impacting variables that may affect a wood floor. For warranty and/or hold harmless agreements, check with legal counsel." Then it goes on for another two pages listing just about everything that could happen in a building and also refers to other sections in the Guidelines. It is fair to refer to this section of the Guidelines as the BOHICA clause. Judges and Arbitrators place a great deal of importance on "Official Industry Guidelines", and if your dispute ends up in a formal setting get yourself ready for BOHICA time.
Another thought just popped in my head. Do they have a wood floor topic posting on the ABA (American Bar Association) web site where the learned barristers thoughtfully discuss cupping and the importance of acclimating. Just wondering??
edited by hbrickman on 8/1/2014
That is an excellent point.
But in defense of David and Roy I think that two factors form the basis of their position regarding the waiver of liability.
1-Consumer protection laws in many states give the consumer a great deal of "protection" against slick talking double dealing salesmen and contractors. AND
2-The NWFA Installation Guidelines specifically states "Installation constitutes acceptance of flooring material, subfloor/substrate, the job site itself including the ambient temperature and relative humidity at the time of installation, and all impacting variables that may affect a wood floor. For warranty and/or hold harmless agreements, check with legal counsel." Then it goes on for another two pages listing just about everything that could happen in a building and also refers to other sections in the Guidelines. It is fair to refer to this section of the Guidelines as the BOHICA clause. Judges and Arbitrators place a great deal of importance on "Official Industry Guidelines", and if your dispute ends up in a formal setting get yourself ready for BOHICA time.
Another thought just popped in my head. Do they have a wood floor topic posting on the ABA (American Bar Association) web site where the learned barristers thoughtfully discuss cupping and the importance of acclimating. Just wondering??
edited by hbrickman on 8/1/2014
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Topic "4" Flooring Gaping" a message from May
I was called by a contractor who had installed 4" plain sawn flooring in the summer about 3 years ago in a new home, the problem there is that in the winter time there are big gaps all over that is not acceptable, in the summer time there are ok, we already scraped and refinished a couple rooms with different fillers and everything popped out, he ripped out the flooring of 2 big rooms, I tested the moisture of the plywood most of it is about 12.8, what should I do?
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Topic "Floating wood making creaking noise" a message from joelwinter
Has anyone considered or tried a technique for blowing superfine sand under the area where the floor yields slightly under foot?
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Topic "Flaking-Peeling Hardwood floors --- Is it toxic?" a message from djprole
Hi, we just moved into this place and the floors are flaking of, we have a 8 month year old baby who is crawling around and staring to pick stuff off the floor and eat it. I'm not sure what the finish but I do have a pics of it below. Wondering if this is toxic or what kind of surface finish it is? It feels a bit like plastic in my fingers when i move it around
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edited by djprole on 8/3/2014
edited by djprole on 8/3/2014
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Topic "Solid Hardwood over Plywood Underlayment (Vapor)" a message from richd
Looking to install a solid 3/4 Brazilian Cumaru Hardwood Flooring in in the kitchen the next few weeks. My subfloor is 3/4 T&G and it has a basement under the floor.
I know a lot of folks recommend a #15/#30 asphalt tar paper, but I am concerned about off-gasing since my family has allergies. Mullican sells a Moisture Mat which has improved vapor characteristics (Kraft \ Asphalt) but I am still slightly concerned about the off- gassing.
Any recommendations ?
Also, any concerns with putting the same hardwood in a laundry room ?
Thanks
edited by richd on 8/4/2014
I know a lot of folks recommend a #15/#30 asphalt tar paper, but I am concerned about off-gasing since my family has allergies. Mullican sells a Moisture Mat which has improved vapor characteristics (Kraft \ Asphalt) but I am still slightly concerned about the off- gassing.
Any recommendations ?
Also, any concerns with putting the same hardwood in a laundry room ?
Thanks
edited by richd on 8/4/2014
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Topic "Advice on big machine?!?" a message from JAH4zero1
I bought a all American 220v machine but I now see its only 1.5 hp is it a good machine or is it not much more powerful then a 110? Thanks
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Topic "Flip vs elan" a message from Adnan
Hi everyone I just wanted to get your opinion on which edger do you thing is better Lagler Flip or Lagler Elan?
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Topic "Permanent installed cabinets over hardwood" a message from richd
I was planning on removing a kitchen island to run prefinished hardwood across the room, and then reinstall. But I am reading that several manufactures do not recommend installation of permanent cabinets or furniture over their products
Any risks if I do install the island on the top, other than the 3/4 inch height difference ?
Any risks if I do install the island on the top, other than the 3/4 inch height difference ?
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Topic "Poor installation?" a message from Kathye
The wood company representative comes tomorrow. We will see what he says. Thank you for replies.
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